100 Culture and Forcing of the Garden Violet. 



they should stand at the distance of 4 in. apart, the hoe may 

 be now and then apphed to keep them free from weeds. 



Towards the end of July, they will be fit for removal into 

 the flowering bed. This is prepared in an open and sheltered 

 situation, in the following manner : — Form a layer of unsifted 

 coal ashes, well trodden down, 1 ft. thick, to prevent worms 

 rising from the natural soil, and over this place the following 

 compost ; viz., two fourths well reduced bog or peat earth, 

 one fourth free loam, one fourth well rotted cow-dung, and a 

 little bright clear sand. These are to be well reduced in mix- 

 ing, but not sifted. 



With this compost the bottom is covered 10 in. deep, and 

 when well settled it will be ready for the plants. These are 

 to be carefully raised from the nursery-bed with good balls, 

 trimmed, and planted in the prepared bed, at intervals of 6 in., 

 in rows 6 in. apart. Here the plants are attended to by water- 

 ing, cleaning, and shading when necessary, till they are nearly 

 done flowering, at which time the frame is put on, to defend 

 them from receiving too much rain. 



The frame and lights should have the same inclination as 

 the surface of the bed, the glass being at the distance of 1 ft. 

 therefrom. The lights should, however, be kept off as much 

 as possible, in order to admit full air, gentle rain, and dew. 



When the nights begin to get cold in the autumn, the 

 lights must be put on, and in all inclement weather kept on 

 even in the daytime. During nights the frame must be covered 

 sufficiently with mats, so that no frost may enter; and, as a 

 further security, a lining of mulch, 1 ft. thick, should be com- 

 pactly built all round the frame. In dry weather, if the plants 

 be slightly sprinkled with water, before covering up, it will 

 excite the young buds, and enlarge the expanding blossoms. 



To insure a succession, another parcel of manure should 

 be pricked out a month later than the first, and not transferred 

 to the flowering frame till the middle of September ; and, as 

 these are not intended to flower till February, less protection 

 during winter will be necessary. If violet plants are required 

 during winter in pots, they may be potted in August, and 

 forced in a mild dung heat of 60° any time between Novem- 

 ber and March ; they will flower in great perfection. 



The Double Neapolitan is the best for forcing ; the New 

 Single Russian is very early and hardy, but not showy. The 

 Old Dark Purple will not bear forcing well. With regard to 

 violets, it is observable that if they have too much sun in 

 March and April it injures their colour; shading at that time 

 is therefore necessary. E. 



Roehampton, Dec. 1827. 



