342 On the Culture of A}na)]i/tlk\ese. 



otlierwise, requires a period of rest. Our snowdrop, crocus, 

 narcissus, and lily mark out this law of Nature, which, out 

 of doors, she very kindly performs for us : but as in the stove 

 and green -house we rule the elements, so do we too often sub- 

 ject our plants to the most capricious treatment, the stimuli of 

 heat and water being always at hand. Hence we can account 

 for such queries as Mr. Groom's, and, indeed, for M. Falder- 

 mann's own observation, where he says he saw it so seldom 

 well in flower during some years' residence in this country. 

 Hippeastrum vittatum is, in fact, one of the fastest-growing 

 and freest-flowering bulbs of the genus. Sow the seed when 

 ripe, and place the pots in the stove or hot-bed ; the latter to 

 be preferred if at work. The soil for this should be any light 

 sandy compost ; the pots to be plunged in the tan ; prick out 

 the young bulbs when they have made two entire leaves, with 

 the appearance of a third advancing, and put them into small 

 pots, with plenty of drainage and broken potsherds, which the 

 roots are fond of runninor through. The soil for this should 

 be two thirds of any rich light sandy compost, of which horse- 

 dung is the principal ingredient, and one third turfy loam, 

 chopped fine, but not riddled. Plunge them again in tan, and 

 keep up the stimulus of heat; water them very cautiously and 

 gently, until the leaf begins to start, when the quantity may 

 be again increased. The bulbs will now grow fast, and, in 

 the course of five or six weeks, may be again potted into the 

 next size larger pots, and then treated as before. This fre- 

 quent potting encourages the growth of the fibres, and adds 

 most surprisingly to the size of the bulbs. We know how this 

 stimulus acts with respect to balsams and other plants, and it 

 is just as decided here. Continue the potting as the bulbs 

 increase, and keep up the stimuli of heat and water. Should 

 any, however, appear sickly, and their foliage turn yellow, 

 abstain from watering altogether ; and, being removed to a per- 

 fectly dry place, they will soon go to rest. It does not follow, 

 as M. Faldermann says, that the bulbs will lose their leaves 

 in the autumn ; neither need any Amaryllis, of whatever age, 

 until it has arrived at maturity. 



They should be now removed to the green-house, and re- 

 ceive a diminished quantity of water; for, although the plants 

 have leaves, tha/ are to a certain degree at rest, when excite- 

 ment of any sort is dangerous. Towards November, or, in 

 some cases, earlier or later, a fresh leaf will begin to show 

 itself, when they are to be repotted, and only gently forced, as 

 at this season we have not light to aflford a vigorous foliage. 

 In February, however, or sooner, the former process of hot- 

 bed management may be resumed. Urge them on as far as 



