of a recent Continental Tour. 21 



government works, and in a short time presents nothing but 

 a few shreds of rusty iron. 



Geneva has always been the peculiar abode of political and 

 religious freedom ; and, even now, the inhabitants approach 

 nearer to those healthy and peculiarly English habits of 

 mind, which free institutions produce, than perhaps any other 

 people on the Continent. 



An admirable system of public instruction and public 

 reward is, and has long been, in operation ; and its effects are 

 manifest even on the lowest orders. 



In fine, " were the woi-ld all before me where to choose" 

 to anchor my bark of life, that choice should be at Geneva. 



In this rapid sketch, we must pass over any description of 

 its library, with the homilies of St. Augustine, written on 

 papyrus of the sixth century, its museum, with all the labours 

 of Saussure and De Luc, and all the tempting glories of its 

 elegant bijouterie, &c., to make an excursion to Ferney, and 

 visit all that remains of the abode of him 



" Who was all fire and fickleness ; a child 

 Most mutable in wishes ; but, in mind, 

 A wit as various, gay, grave, sage, or wild, — 

 Historian, bard, philosopher combined." 



— need I say, of Voltaire ? 



The way from Geneva is through a rich and highly culti- 

 vated country; corn and pastui'e, chestnuts and orchards, 

 and here and there a vine or fig tree, embroider the face 

 of nature into a garden. Well kept fences and hedge- 

 rows skirt the shady roads, which not a little resemble 

 some of the finer parts of our own country. The house in 

 which Voltaire so long resided, where he drew around him 

 the learned and the noble of every nation, and where he re- 

 ceived the ambassadors of the Russian empress, is now a 

 tenantless mansion, the desolate goal of travelling curiosity. 



" Decay's effacing fingers " press heavily on all around : 

 the house is disfurnished, save of some mouldy pictures, a 

 few chairs and tables, and a bed, said to have been Voltaire's. 

 The grounds were laid out in the old French style of garden- 

 ing. A straight avenue, many of the trees of which have fallen 

 to decay, leads to the house. 



The garden consists at present but of a long straight 

 Z>^rf raw [bower] walk of beeches, rampant and undipped, where 

 many of those works were composed which, while they de- 

 lighted by their wit, poisoned the very sources of human 

 morals. This walk, which commands a noble view of the 

 high Alps, was the favourite musing-place of Voltaire. 



Near the house is a circular fountain basin, half choked 



c 3 



