Pruning and Training of the Morello Cherry. 73 



way of ridging out the plants when small, it is well known 

 that they often lose their bottom roots, which causes the 

 plants to become weak, and seldom or never do well after ; but 

 in this way of ridging out from the rack, you will find that 

 the plants will grow very freely, and you will soon cut fruit. 

 I have ridged out with fruit in bloom, and cut the second week 

 after. Cucumbers grown this way will produce fruit much 

 sooner, and continue to do well, and are not liable to be in- 

 jured by the cheese bugs (or wood lice), as is too often the 

 case. I recommend the air pipes to be stoppled when the 

 linings are changed, till the heat has recovered again ; then 

 let them be open as before. The boards that are put on the 

 suspended rack are three, of a breadth which forms a square; 

 the middle board being divided across the middle, which 

 makes four pieces ; the rack is suspended by four pieces of 

 chain, which hook to any height that may be required. 



I am. Sir, yours, &c. 

 The JRev. Ford Gildarth, Edward Elliot. 



West Wickham, Kent. 



Art. XXII. On the Pruning and Training of the Morello Cherry 

 Tree. By Mr. William Seymour. 



Sir, 



Conceiving that the morello cherry (which is generally 

 allowed to pine away under the uncongenial influence of a 

 northern aspect) is ahuost unnoticed by any of the numerous 

 friends of horticulture, and that it merits a small share of 

 notice, I shall endeavour to offer a few hints on its culture, 

 which may be found of some service to some of your young 

 readers, like myself. The mode that I adopt is, to form the 

 tree on the same principles as those on which the peach tree 

 is formed {Jig. 17.) (to which the morello cherry has a great 

 resemblance in its growth), and to be particularly attentive to 

 the young main branches of last summer's growth. While 

 these are strong, and supplied with wood buds, we should 

 retain such as are well placed and likely to produce shoots 

 for future bearing, at about a foot distant, on the upper side, 

 if they can be got (but that cannot always be accomplished, 

 from the buds being single, and part of them blossom buds), 

 and displace those not wanted, in order to strengthen the 

 shoots retained, {^fig \*l.a a a.) 



At the winter dressing, the young bearing shoots of last 

 summer's growth must be neatly nailed to the wall, and not 



