contained a shallow east-west depression causing the transect to be in deeper 

 water than the surrounding area. Transect VI was located 200 meters north of 

 transect V in a barren sand area with little slope, which is typical of the 

 sound beach. 



2. Sample Locations . 



On the ocean beach, the zero point on each transect was the landward 

 margin of the swash zone. Thus, the sites were in the same relative position 

 with reference to the wave activity, but changed position between the sampling 

 series with reference to a fixed point onshore. Sampling sites were located 

 at 3.3, 7.6, 10.6, 15.2, 30.4, 45.6, and 60.8 meters (horizontal distance) from 

 the swash zone. When possible, samples were collected during low tide so the 

 sites were relatively the same distance from mean sea level (MSL) over the 

 sampling series. However, the main criterion in determining the sampling times 

 was the sea conditions. 



On the sound beach transects, the zero point was the sound margin 

 (approximately +1.0 foot MSL, 1929 datum). Sampling sites 1 to 8, 

 respectively, were placed 15.2, 38.0, 51.8, 61.0, 68.6, 76.2, 152.4, and 

 304.8 meters westward of the zero point. 



3. Sampling Times . 



The sampling of all sites wa:' made during each of the four seasonal 

 sampling periods: November, January, April, and July. These periods were 

 chosen to coincide as closely as possible with Matta's (1977) study and with 

 the period of statistically determined low significant wave heights. The 

 ocean beach was not sampled during unfavorable sea conditions. During the 

 fall, winter, and spring seasons, the northwest winds following the passage 

 of low-pressure centers provided excellent periods for collecting samples in 

 the surf zone. 



4. Measurement of Physical Parameters . 



Sites were located to the nearest foot by stretching a precalibrated 

 nylon line, which was anchored to the shore, over the transect. The vertical 

 distance to the nearest foot from MSL was determined by correcting measured 

 site water depth at the time of sampling with tide gage data provided by the 

 CERC FRF. The temperature to the nearest 0.5° Celsius was measured near the 

 bottom of each site using a field thermometer. A bottom water sample was also 

 taken for laboratory analysis to the nearest part per thousand of salinity. 



5. Sampling Device . 



The sampling device (Fig. 3) was a corer constructed of a 6-millimeter 

 (1/4 inch) circular steelplate with a 1-centimeter hole in the center welded 

 to a 15-centimeter section of 8.55-centimeter-diameter (3-3/8 inch) steel 

 electrical conduit. A 2.54-centimeter (1 inch) pipe coupling was welded to 

 the plate over the hole, and a 2.54-centimeter steel pipe was tightly screwed 

 into the coupling. The leading edge of the steel conduit was sharpened to 

 aid penetration. A long handle (about 100 centimeters) was used in the 

 shallow areas, and a short handle (about 15 centimeters) was used in the 

 deep areas that required diving. 



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