114 Excursion up the River Masseroni, 



sugar exported from Demerara. Higher up are Hog Island 

 and Fort Island ; the latter of which was formerly the seat of 

 the Dutch government, and on which an old fort and a bomb- 

 proof magazine, in perfect repair, are still remaining. These, 

 and many other large islands, are thickly interspersed with 

 smaller ones, exhibiting every possible variety of size and shape, 

 of which the chief beauty consists in their being, one and all, 

 covered with vegetation to the water's edge. 



In progressing up the river, the banks afford a great variety 

 of ornamental trees and shrubs ; and it was to me a source of 

 regret, that I could not afford time to examine their beauties 

 individually : but my time was exclusively devoted to the tribe of 

 Orchidese; and no one, except him who may have been engaged 

 in such a pursuit, can imagine how fully the time of a collector 

 is occupied in a tropical country. On the lith, having hired a 

 canoe, with three cobmen (a cross between the Indian and negro), 

 four Indians, and a coloured man who spoke a little English, I 

 commenced the ascent of the i-iver in good earnest ; depending 

 for the support of myself and party on the fish which the Indians 

 could shoot with their bows and arrows ; or, should that fail, on 

 the game which I could procure by the agency of a good double- 

 barreled gun. We had no further want, except a little cassava 

 bread, which we expected to obtain at the different Indian settle- 

 ments we might fall in with in our route. 



There is something very exciting in this kind of life to one 

 who makes up his mind to eat the more merrily the scantier or 

 coarser his meal, and to laugh at and enjoy difficulties and 

 dangers, which, in the routine of ordinary life, would be con- 

 sidered as insuperable; and as the light canoe glided swiftly 

 over the bosom of the placid river, or was being hauled up the 

 face of some rocky fall or rapid, I felt an enthusiasm and content 

 which I cannot describe. My plan of proceeding was simple 

 and regular. A little before break of day, our hammocks were 

 unslung and conveyed to the canoe ; and at daybreak, having 

 taken my cup of coffee, the only luxury I carried with me, I 

 stepped into the canoe, which was immediately shoved off by the 

 grave and methodical Indians, who continued paddling till ten 

 or eleven o'clock, unless interrupted by me, or by the pursuit of 

 fish for our breakfast. Between ten and eleven, which time was 

 ascertained either by the position of the sun, the surest guide, 

 or by consulting a watch I carried with me, having fixed upon a 

 spot likely to afford Orchideos, a wave of my hand towards the 

 shore caused the sharp-bowed canoe to dash in upon the fine 

 sand which is found in some parts of this river, or to be brought 

 up, with great precision, alongside the rough and pointed rocks 

 which often gird its banks. 



It sometimes, though rarely, happened that we had shot no 



