as practised hy Mr. Dowding, at OaJchill. 257 



as detailed of our practice for Queens (p. 20.) ; and, in the month 

 of March, every rooted succession pine plant not in a fruiting- 

 pot is turned out of its pot, and has its roots examined and 

 shortened, according to its age and sort, and the end it is ex- 

 pected to serve. Young plants of green pines we disroot freely ; 

 older ones now about to be shifted into fruiting-pots, expected to 

 mature fruit late in autumn, if the roots are lively, are potted 

 now, preserving their balls entire; Providences, Envilles, &c., 

 we disroot moderately, carefully cutting off any dead or sickly 

 roots, and, by means of a pointed stick, removing all sodden and 

 wasted soil. In shifting Jamaicas, we are careful to preserve 

 every living fibre of root, yet we displace from their balls all 

 drainage and worthless soil before repotting them. 



Being potted, they are plunged about two thirds in a bottom 

 heat of not less than 95°, and the temperature of their atmo- 

 sphere gradually increased (say March 22., 65° at sunrise, and 

 April 11., 70° at sunrise; the maximum, June, 90°). As to the 

 time of shifting again, that the state of the plants must determine; 

 say June 1., and, again, the middle of August; a uniform bottom 

 heat of not less than 90° being kept up throughout, maximum 

 100°, minimum 70°. In the evenings of bright sunny days we 

 sprinkle the internal surface lightly with a fine rose, to resemble 

 a heavy dew. 



As the season declines the temperature is lowered, and the 

 standard for winter is fixed at 60°. Say Nov. 1. the fruiting-pits 

 are filled with the best of the plants in fruiting-pots that were 

 potted in August ; the bark bed having been previously filled 

 with tan (if not all new, new being far preferable, at' least all 

 good), warm and well trodden, and the pots plunged about 2 in. 

 with tan laid up between them, to be levelled around the pots as 

 the heat declines, without disturbing the plants. When they are 

 wanted to start into fruit, expected to be matured by June ] ., we 

 begin by increasing the minimum temperature, say on Dec. 10., 

 to 65° \ on 17th, to 70° ; and on 31st, to 75° ; which temperature 

 is maintained till the fruits appear emerging from their sockets, 

 with a rise of 4° by day with artificial heat, or with sun heat 10°. 

 The fruits being in sight (say Jan. 10.), we reduce the night heat 

 to 72° till they have done flowering (say March 5.), keeping the 

 atmosphere moist, and supplying them with plenty of water at 

 their roots, and reducing the temperature (fire heat being inju- 

 rious to fruit swelling) to 70° minimum, maximum 110°, close 

 and moist. We raise the bottom heat, if possible, to 110°, by 

 moistening the dry surface of the bed, and filling in more fresh 

 tan between the pots ; to facilitate which, the pots are plunged in 

 rows across the bed. During the time that the fruits are swelling, 

 sprinkling is particularly attended to: as the fruits begin to 



