84 Culture qfCdctcce. 



not without success ; in which pits cuttings especially are in no danger of 

 rotting, but root very soon, and keep on growing vigorously. Even for newly 

 imported specimens of extraordinary size, this treatment seems to be well 

 adapted ; so much so, that large melocactuses, most of which were lost under 

 the former management, are now found, in a short time, to resume a healthy 

 growth. (See $14.) 



§ 4. But very little seems to depend on the compost used for Cacteae, pro- 

 vided that the general rule be attended to, not to use any too heavy or rich 

 mould, or such as is manured with animal substances. A mixture of sifted 

 well decomposed frame dung, and garden mould, with a third of river sand 

 and riddled lime rubbish, has proved, in my experience, most suitable for all 

 the Cacteae. Nevertheless, we often find that Cereus speciosissimus, phyllan- 

 thoides, and flagelliformis, potted in any soil, do very well, and flower. Mr. 

 Haage of Erford uses a great deal of brickdust mixed with the soil ; and, 

 apparently, with good success. 



$ 5. Most of the Cacteae have but few and small roots, compared with their 

 size; upon which account it is advisable to give them very small, particularly 

 not too deep, pots ; in which a good draining is produced by putting in crocks 

 and pieces of lime or flint stones, to the depth of an inch ; so that the water 

 cannot stagnate, and become hurtful to the root. The tender roots, or 

 spongioles, like to adhere to these drainings, and even to penetrate such as 

 are of a porous structure (like the chalk stone generally used with us). Pots 

 made of china, or glazed, are by no means to be used, as the plants will soon 

 become sick in them, and die. 



§ 6. The general rule for repotting Cacteae is, not to do it, unless absolutely 

 necessary, in the latter part of the autumn, or in the winter. They require 

 repotting : first, when the whole pot is filled with a dense ball of roots ; 

 secondly, when it happens that the roots grow through the bottom of the pot, 

 and that the surface of the soil becomes impervious to water, and is covered with 

 moss ; thirdly, when we observe that insects or worms have penetrated the soil 

 (which discovers itself by a peculiar caking together of the mould into small 

 lumps) ; and lastly, when a plant, healthy before, stops growing for a long 

 period, the reason of which is generally the exhausted state of the mould. 



$ 7. It is always best to free the roots carefully and entirely from the 

 mould, so that they may be all loose and naked ; and to take all the dry fibres 

 off; then to hold the plant at a right height and position over a somewhat 

 larger pot, with small pieces of lime in the bottom, and to keep on powdering 

 in from all sides fresh and loose, but not quite dry mould, until the pot is full. 

 Shaking the pot several times against the bench will make the mould set, and 

 get somewhat firmer. By no means, however, should the mould be pressed 

 close with the fingers, as, if it gets too firm, the tender roots break off, and 

 give occasion to rotting. 



$ 8. The watering during winter must be done with the utmost care, regu- 

 lating the repetition and proportion of its application according to the average 

 temperature in which the plants are kept. Cactuses may be watered in a 

 regularly heated stove every second or third day, without any danger ; when- 

 ever the soil is not only dry on the surface, but completely so throughout, 

 which is easily ascertained by the weight of the pot. On the contrary, when 

 Cacteae are wintered in a but moderately warm place, and particularly in an 

 irregularly heated room, it becomes very necessary to keep them almost quite 

 dry, and to water them at the utmost once a fortnight, to prevent their shrink- 

 ing, and to enable them to recover so much the faster in the spring; and even 

 toleave off syringing the plants, both in the stove and rooms, during winter, 

 seems to be the best practice. 



§ 9. As soon as summer approaches, and the plants begin to thrive, they should 

 not want nourishment. They then require a good supply of water; and in 

 sunny weather they must be watered and syringed abundantly every day, 

 which will be done best in the evenings, when the rays of the sun have nearly 

 or entirely left them. A very suitable way to furnish the plants with water, 

 (which, however, will not be easily accomplished in large collections), I think, 



