Ohservatiofis on forcing HyacintJis. 31 



it is left exactly as it is, and is planted like the others ; and 

 although it will not flower, it will produce a great many youno- 

 bulbs. 



These are the principal characteristics of the diseases to 

 which bulbs are liable. When you wish to increase thein, 

 great care must be taken, while they are out of the ground, not 

 to pull off the small white offsets that have sprung out at the 

 sides, and from the stool of the bulb ; because this treatment, 

 even if it does not injure the parent bulb, is sure to destroy 

 the young ones, which would not be the case if they were al- 

 lowed to remain on another year. When the young ones are 

 older, and are become strong, they will have stools of their 

 own, from which roots will proceed ; and when in this state, 

 they may without danger be separated from the parent bulb. 



When the bulbs have been all carefully examined, they are 

 planted thirty-six hours afterwards at the latest; because, as 

 they have been probably very much cut, a longer delay would 

 cause a reappearance of the mould, which would terminate in 

 destroying them. 



In our next Number will be given a year's culture of hya- 

 cinths, as practised in Holland ; beginning with the season for 

 planting in October. 



Art. IX. Observations on forcing Hyacinths. 

 (Translated from the German, by J. L.) 



In order to make hyacinths flower in the beginning of De- 

 cember, they should be planted the beginning of August, and 

 the pots plunged in the open air to such a depth that they may 

 be covered with mould to the depth of 4 in. 



They should be taken out again about the middle or end of 

 October, put in warm tan or sand in a hot-house, near the 

 sashes, and kept moist. The best sorts for this purpose are the 

 Single blue January, Single blue Gallas, Single blue Imperiale, 

 and the Single white Imperiale. The best kind of tulip for the 

 same purpose is the Due van Tholl. 



If these sorts are treated in this manner, and kept moist and 

 warm, they will not fail to flower about the beginning or middle 

 of December. Many other sorts may be brought into flower 

 about the beginning of January. 



Those forced hyacinths which are intended to flower in Fe- 

 bruary and March, should be planted in September and Octo- 

 ber, or even about the middle of November ; the pots being 

 plunged in the open air, and covered with mould. A bed should 

 be made the beginning of January, consisting of horse-dung, 



