90 VAL DE CHINA.—RETURN TO PICACHO. 
January 13.—From the hill we again raised a huge column of smoke, but, as no answering 
signal was seen from the wagon-camp, two soldiers were despatched to conduct the train from 
that place. Leaving Picacho springs we entered the great valley, several miles in width, and 
ascended it ten miles towards the west-northwest. The hills here closed in, contracting the width 
to about half a mile. After having travelled a short distance in what appeared to be a sort of 
gorge uniting the main valley to another seen beyond, our mules became weary, and we stopped 
for the night. This is the most dreary camp-ground we have had. "There is neither water nor 
wood. Our blankets, with saddles for pillows, have been placed in the middle of the valley, 
to be as far as possible from any ambitious Indians that might desire to practise archery at 
night from the hills. "There is not a rock nor a bush near us from which a sheltered and home 
feeling can be derived. To add to the dreariness of the place, clouds seem to threaten rain. 
The rich black loamy soil we have passed over is covered most luxuriantly with the excellent 
grama-grass, so often referred to as being abundant throughout this region, called by Mex- 
icans *'de china," from which the valley derives its name. It is now grazed by numerous 
herds of antelope and deer, and would furnish pasturage for thousands of cattle and sheep. 
We have found no water in it above the streams that enter south of the Picacho; but the soil 
seems so moist of itself, that probably, without irrigation, it might be cultivated to better 
advantage even than the Zuñi valley. If so, the amount of grain that it could produce would 
be sufficient for a very large population. 
January 14.—Moving onward, the valley soon opened into a sort of plain stretching towards 
the north-northwest, bounded upon the east by high sandstone mesas, and upon the west by the 
mountain chain we had seen from Picacho. On the way Savedra thought he recognised a point 
on the route he pursued with the Moquis twelve years since, and a few of us followed him to the 
top of a high hill to reconnoitre. He was entirely lost. Westward, far as we could see, were 
piles of mountains extending north and south, without any indications of a passage through 
them. Returning to the plain, we followed Leroux for several miles northwardly, until, finding 
a patch of snow upon the hill-side, we determined, as the mules were weary, to encamp. . 
Albert Campbell, Dr. Bigelow, Mr. White, and myself then climbed to the top of a hill, by 
barometer measurement twelve hundred feet in height, which afforded an extensive view 
towards the north. We could trace the rapidly-ascending plain, with red cliffs of mesas upon 
the east, apparently at about the same height as ourselves; and upon the west, the still more 
elevated mountain range, but with sides less precipitous. "There it is supposed the trail of 
Captain Sitgreaves passed, and the country looks, as it has been described, exceedingly barren ` 
and waterless. Neither Leroux nor Savedra can givesus encouragement of finding water for 
several days upon that route, even should we succeed in passing the mountain with the train. 
Besides, there is already before the department a report of that country, and if we fail, it must 
be in the effort for new discoveries. It has been, therefore, decided to return to Picacho, and 
from thence explore towards the southwest. 
By indication of the barometer, we are now four hundred feet above the bivouac at Picacho 
spring. 
January 15—Camp 99.—Turning our faces towards the southeast, we descended the broad 
sloping prairie to Picacho spring, where we found the main party with the train. They had 
been here two days, and the mules were literally rolling with satiety in the luxuriant grass 
of the valley. New species of pouched rats, an owl, and magnificent antlers of a mountain 
sheep, had been secured, and many fossils, also a specimen of what appears to be silver ore, 
collected. 
January 16.—As camp near the pools was exposed to the full sweep of the wind, it was. 
moved about a mile to a more sheltered spot in Val de China. Wethen reformed the recon- 
noitring party and travelled south 20° west, traversing the valley ten miles, to a dry arroyo 
upon a slope of the hills, where we stopped for the night. During the march we were obliged to 
face a bitter storm of sleet. Our bivouac is somewhat sheltered from it by a cluster of cedar 
