18 MENDOZA. 



In warm weafher Mendoza is like a deserted city from about eleven A. M. till five P. M. The 

 stores are closed, and people all retire to take the siesta, or pass the heat of the day as best 

 suits them. 



From the little I saw of the polite society of the place, I was very favorably impressed. 

 AYhon walking about the streets at night I could not help learning, however, that the plague 

 of i)ianos was making its inroads. 



The o-overnment, although hampered in its means, was endeavoring to improve the condition 

 of the roads and bridges. A gang of hands was at work in the mountains clearing the road as 

 far as the Cumbre, and a fine bridge was being built, under the direction of Don Carlos Maria 

 de Eivarola, for the Kio de las Vacas. I mention this gentleman's name in order to state that he 

 was universally kind and attentive to me, and rendered me any assistance in his power in the 

 discharge of my duty. Through his introduction I obtained from an exceedingly interesting 

 and amiable lady, with a charming impediment in her speech, the use of a fine shady vineyard. 

 Here, under shelter and refreshed now and then by a rum punch or lemonade made by the lady's 

 own hand, I was enabled to complete my work. 



Don Carlos was colonel under Kosas, but for some years has been chief of the engineer depart- 

 ment in Mendoza ; and, although never educated as an engineer, he has very excellent practi- 

 cal knowledge, and is quite suited to the wants of the country. 



The market of Mendoza is supplied with scarcely anything more than beef, squashes, and 

 potatoes. Chickens, eggs, and a few other articles are hawked about the streets, but are very 

 scarce. In the hotel the cook came every day to inquire what we would have for dinner ; and 

 in answer to our questions as to what she had, invariably said, whatever we wished ; but we 

 soon found that we must choose only from beef or chicken, eggs or squashes. 



The various modes of crossing from Mendoza to Eosario or Buenos Ayres are, first, in what 

 are called galeras — enormous, heavy four-wheel coaches, hung like our stage-coaches, and bound 

 and lashed around the spokes and axle-trees in every direction with raw-hide thongs, to 

 strengthen them. In some parts of the country — as from Eosario to Cordova, for instance — 

 these travel regularly, the passenger paying about fifty dollars for his seat, and having no 

 responsibility for the horses or coach. But from Mendoza there is not travel enough to justify 

 this, and therefore the usual way is for two or three to club together and purchase a galera. 

 As to the cost, I can only give my own experience. Before we had decided how to travel, Mr. 

 Blanchard and myself cast about us for one, but could find only one at all fit for the journey 

 under four hundred dollars, and this was in a dilapidated condition. 



Harnesses are not necessary for these or any other wheel-vehicle used in the pampa ; so that 

 after paying for the carriage, the only other expense is for horses. These are obtained at the 

 post-houses at the rate of one real — twelve and a half cents — per league each, except for the first 

 post out of the towns, which are generally double rates. The galera requires four horses, each 

 of which is mounted by a postillion. Tlrey are connected with the carriage by means of lassos 

 hooked to the saddle-girths — two alongside of the tongue, and the other two at its end, so that 

 it is only a momentary job to change them. When the post is long, it is necessary to have a 

 relay or two driven in company, which, of course, increases the expenses. This is perhaps the 

 most comfortable, although the most expensive way of travelling. It is also rather rapid, 

 the horses being spurred along at a gallop where the road is good, and the post short. 



Besides the galera there is a nondescript vehicle, on two wheels, that looks like a peak-roofed 

 house. It has no springs, and is drawn either by horses or oxen. Next comes the ox-cart 

 itself, an immensely high and narrow afi"air, mounted on very large wheels. The wood-work 

 of this is necessarily very strong, but the sides and top are of straw, closely woven over half 

 hoops. Each cart is furnished with a large earthen jar, strapped behind, for carrying water — a 

 very necessary article, because in some parts of the road they are frequently two or three days 

 crossing what are called travesias, places where there is no water to be had. 



These vehicles are generally drawn by three pairs of oxen ; the first supporting the tongue ; 



