MENDOZA. 19 



the otliers a little separated ahead, and capable of being let out to some distance when the 

 wagon gets into a mud-hole. The object of this arrangement is, that the two front pairs may 

 get on dry ground, where they will be able to pull the cart out. The oxen are always yoked by 

 the horns, which I do not think preferable to our way. The driver of one of these ox-carts sits 

 in front, armed with a short goad for the first pair of oxen ; and has control of another long 

 enough to reach the head pair, which is slung from the roof of the cart in such a manner as to 

 be nearly balanced. This is armed with an iron point at the extremity, and has another pro- 

 jecting from it at right angles in such a position as to reach the middle pair. Their rate of 

 travel is from three to six leagues a day ; and this mode can recommend itself only to a naturalist 

 or to a person fond of hunting. Either of these could have a horse along, and whenever he 

 should get tired of the cart, could mount and gallop off in any direction as far as he pleased, 

 with a certainty of being able to overtake the train by night. I thought of taking a cart for 

 myself and instruments, making it comfortable by half filling it with straw, and learned that 

 it would cost me sixty dollars to Kosario ; but I had to decline, as the owner of the train would 

 not consent either to my going ahead or remaining behind — which would have been necessary, 

 as the trains do not halt long enough to accomplish the work I had to do. 



Simple passage in a cart from Mendoza to Kosaria is usually from seventeen to twenty dollars, 

 beef included ; but the passenger must accommodate himself in the best way he can on top of the 

 load. The time of travel between the two places ranges from thirty-five to forty-five, and 

 even to sixty days, depending on the state of the road. 



These are the only modes of travel across the pampa by wheel conveyance ; but there are still 

 three others more usual than either. First, by hiring one mule, or as many as may be needed, 

 of a train bound over with produce. In this case, you put yourself entirely under control of 

 the capataz, or chief arriero, setting out and stopping when he pleases. The expense is gene- 

 rally very small, but is not at all fixed, and the proper price will be about what the shipping, 

 or rather muling merchant pays per load, which, I think, is not far from fifteen dollars. A 

 stranger, however, will, in all probability, have to pay more ; and if he travel in this way, it 

 will be well for him to have a native servant, accustomed to the ways of the road, who should 

 be made to provide fresh provisions, whenever they can be had, and carry along a keg or a 

 couple of bottles of good water, which must only be used in case of necessity : otherwise he will be 

 obliged to put up with one meal of charqui a day, taken, probably, at a pond of stinking water. 

 The arrieros generally carry water in a pair of large ox-horns, called cliifles, which are hung 

 over the crupper of the saddle ; and it is almost unnecessary to say, that after riding six or seven 

 hours in the sim, with the additional heat of one's thighs on them, the water, however good 

 when first put in, is sufficiently disagreeable. Taking everything into consideration, I think 

 this the most inconvenient way of travelling. I met in Mendoza a small party of half-starved 

 Italians : they had come from Rosario, with a train of mules partially laden, for the small sum of 

 eleven dollars each, including beef on the road ; and their complaints of suffering for want of 

 proper food and water were lamentable. I can answer, from experience, that the idea of a 

 person who has been brought up to some of the luxuries of life being able to jump, without 

 preparation, into the habits of the people of the pampa, is almost, if not quite, as preposterous 

 as for him to say, that because cattle subsist on pasturage, he can, Nebuchadnezzar-like, live on 

 grass also. It requires a special dispensation of Providence for him to come out safe. 



The difference between the prices of taking mule trains from Mendoza to Eosario, and 

 from Rosario to Mendoza, consists in the fact that the first trains take down cargoes of greater 

 bulk than they have on their return, and that mules are much cheaper in Eosario than in Men- 

 doza. Therefore the capataz of the downward train will take the least number of animals pos- 

 sible, knowing that, if any fail, he can purchase and make a profit on his return. Next to 

 hiring mules belonging to a train, is to agree with an arriero for the requisite number of 

 animals, both biped and quadruped, stipulating that they shall be entirely under the traveller's 

 control. In this case, one may go when and where he pleases, and, of course, must pay accord- 



