FROM MENDOZA TO SAN LUIS DE LA PUNTA. 27 



and calzoncillas. The cliiripa is generally made of a ponclio, or blanket, one end of whicli is 

 tucked under a waist-belt behind, and the other brought down between the legs and tucked in 

 over the belt before, in such manner that the whole waist is encompassed hj the two ends— the 

 middle hanging loosely as low as the knees. Calzoncillas are very wide, loose drawers, 

 embroidered and fringed at the foot, but not gathered round the ankles — the amotmt of em- 

 broidery generally depending on the social position of the individual, or upon the state of 

 feelings of his female friends or relations, whose principal occupation beyond household cares is 

 to prepare them. For boots or shoes, the soldier, as well as the ordinary gaucho of the country, 

 uses the skin from the legs of horses or mules. This is cut around near the knee-joint and 

 stripped off. The hoof is then removed, and the skin tanned and rubbed until it is pliable. The 

 part from which the hoof is taken is sometimes closed, but generally is only gathered in, leaving 

 room for two of the toes to stick out — an arrangement very necessary for the use of the stirrups 

 of the country, which are so small as not to admit more than the point of the foot ; and not 

 unfrequently a simple knot in the stirrup-leather serves as a substitute by being grasped between 

 the first and second toes. 



The health of San Luis appeared to be good, and, from all I could learn, no epidemic had 

 ever raged there. The secret of this probably consists in the fact that they have no medical 

 men whatever, and therefore never yield to imaginary diseases, thus producing real ones. On 

 the other hand, they of course suffer actual diseases, without knowing what they are or how to 

 cure them. 



I had some medicines with me, which had been brought along to patch myself with from 

 time to time, and having no further use for them, was about to throw them away^ when a visitor 

 in the hotel begged them of me. He only knew that they were " remedies," and it was little 

 matter to him for what diseases they were efficacious. As they were great specifics, I had no 

 hesitation in giving them away, and have no doubt they have effected wonderful cures before 

 this time. 



Perhaps I speak too broadly when I say that there were no medical men in San Luis. There 

 are certainly " curanderos" and "curanderas" — curers, male and female, who are competent, 

 and do treat simple cases. 



There is only one church in the town, which is under the charge of a curate, who is, doubtless, 

 a very lazy and greedy fellow, for, on the Sunday I passed in the place, there was only one 

 mass, and that at too early an hour for me or any one else to attend who had no obligation to 

 prepare for it by fasting. 



But little attention is paid to religion, and less to dress — if the two may be included in the 

 same category. 



The hotel, or "fonda," is, in some respects, better than that of Mendoza. There, at least, 

 one gets what he asks for, provided his desires are moderate, whilst, in the latter named place 

 there is nothing to be had out of the usual routine of beef, squash, and chicken. It is possible, 

 however, that I have made a wrong estimate of the comparative merits of the two, from a curious 

 mistake of the cook in that of San Luis. Nothing I could say would convince her that I was 

 not a certain Don Gruillermo — an American circus-rider, who had passed through with a troupe 

 some two or three years before. From some of the attempted attentions of this damsel, I 

 formed a very poor opinion of the taste of Don Guillermo. 



The only instance of goitre I saw or heard of, was in the case of this very cook, and she had 

 brought it with her from Mendoza. 



Wheat, Indian corn, figs, grapes, and other fruits, are here cultivated for home consumption, 

 and could be profitably grown for a market, if there were one at hand. In the vicinity of the 

 town, and to the westward, there are not sufficient means of irrigating, and they depend in a 

 great measure on rains, which I was told were abundant in summer, but of rare occurrence in 

 winter. The farms to the eastward and southward are irrigated by the waters of a small 

 stream coming from the mountains. 



