CHAPTER V. 



ROSARIO, ANB A VOYAGE TO THE UNITED STATES AND BACK. 



DESCRIPTION OF ROSARIO. COMMERCE. DANGERS OF THE ROAD ACROSS THE PAMPA. VOYAGE DOWN THE RIVER. 



VESSEL LOAD OF FRIARS. BIRD CALLED THE "EIEN TE VEO." RETURN TO THE UNITED STATES. OBTAIN PERMIS- 

 SION TO RETRACE MT STEPS. SAIL FOR MONTEVIDEO. AN OVER-RELIGIOUS FELLOW PASSENGER. ARRIVE IN THE 



RIO DE LA PLATA. VOYAGE TO ROSARIO. HAMPERED WITH A FRENCHMAN. NEW IMPRESSIONS OF ROSARIO. 



DIFFICULTY OF OBTAINING CONVEYANCE TO MENDOZA. 



El Kosario is the most modern-looking town on the road. With the exception of huts on the 

 outskirts, the buildings are all of hi'ick and mortar, and for one falling to decay there are ten 

 heing built. The plaza has on one side a neat church, and on the others comfortable-looking stores 

 and residences, in front of which there are wide sidewalks— the latter being unusual in Spanish 

 American towns. The streets are not yet paved, but in most places have sidewalks. Along 

 the west bank of the river there are occasional algarrobas, and lower down on the flats there 

 is a grove of willows. The banks are about forty feet high; and in muddy weather it is rather 

 a difficult undertaking to reach the landing-place — there being no improvements in that direc- 

 tion for foot-passengers, and the road very much cut up by ox-carts. While I was there, there 

 were eighteen vessels loading for Buenos Ayres and Montevideo. Nearly all were owned and 

 sailed by Italians, although under the Buenos Ayrean flag. 



The opening of navigation of the river, and the blockade of Buenos Ayres, had brought all 

 the trade of the interior to Eosario ; and as transportation from there by water is so much 

 easier than by land, it is probable that the town will increase rapidly. There is very little 

 cultivated land about it; and, indeed, after leaving the Villa del Rio Cuarto I saw no more than 

 small garden spots near some of the post-houses. 



As it is usual at both ends of the road to talk a great deal about the dangers of crossing the 

 pampa, it may be as well to say something here on the subject. 



As the Indians were at peace when I passed over it, I cannot speak from experience with regard 

 to danger from them ; but I do not believe it ever has been very great for travellers. Their 

 inroads were generally made at night, and with great secrecy; and their principal object was to 

 drive off mares and horned cattle. If in the pursuit of this they fell in with defenceless drovers 

 or herdsmen, they usually put them to death — partly to prevent news of their presence being 

 carried to the fort, though most generally from a desire to retaliate, or from a naturally cruel 

 disposition ; and it is probable that travellers fallen in with under the same circumstances have 

 shared the same fate. But as it was contrary to the interest of the Indians to follow the main 

 road, or of travellers to take any other, these encounters were not of frequent occurrence. At 

 all events, I do not think that, for an Englishman or an American, the danger from Indians ever 

 was or ever will be so great as that to be apprehended from some of the lower class gauchos. 

 We are all known as or are supposed to be heretics, the shedding of whose blood is not considered 

 a very grave sin, and is sometimes even considered a merit. To the commission of this meri- 

 torious act let there be added the prospect of pecuniary benefit, and the heretic who finds him- 

 self unprepared, and .in a lonely place, with no other company than two or three gauchos, 

 stands but little chance for his life. As they are cowardly, so are they treacherous ; their usual 

 mode of attack being to approach with a very civil air, requesting fire or a cigar, and at the 

 first unguarded moment of the traveller out comes a knife, and — adios ! 

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