12 FROM SANTIAGO TO MENDOZA BY THE USPALLATA PASS. 



water, with pasturage and fire-wood in abundance — altogether a delightful spot for an hour's 

 resting-spell. 



The traveller will save annoyance by not asking distances of the arrieros. They have no idea 

 at all, except what is based on the condition of the road and of the animal on which they may 

 be mounted. To them, with a good horse on a good road, a place is very near which is very 

 far oif, on a bad horse or road. Their "allii no mas," (just there;) or "alla-cito," (a little this 

 side of just there;) generally turns out to be as far as the eye can reach. 



From the Pichiuta to the table-land there is very little worthy of note. Vegetation increases ; 

 several streamlets enter the river from one side or the other ; and the mountains decrease in 

 height. On entering the table-land near Uspallata, we left the Kio de Mendoza, which flows 

 oiF to the southeastward, and at the distance of about seven miles reached the river and hamlet 

 of Uspallata. 



On our way we saw a beairtiful false sunset. The sun was below the summits of the main 

 range ; but some scattered clouds, high overhead, intercepted in part its last rays, and the bright 

 and dark streaks of atmosphere converged in the distance to the eastward till they appeared to 

 come to a focus at the summit of the range sei^arating Uspallata from the plain, presenting a 

 perfect appearance of sunset in that direction. 



Uspallata is merely a rancheria, consisting of low adobe houses built round a court-yard. 

 The principal part of it is divided into small rooms for the accommodation of travellers ; these 

 have no other furniture than one chair and a very small table in each. Here, as in all the 

 post-houses across the country, the bed-place consists of a shelf of adobes against the wall, 

 raised about two feet above the level of the floor ; this is generally whitewashed, but is not 

 covered, even with ox-hides — the general bed of the traveller — it being supposed that he has 

 blankets and sheep-skins enough about his saddle-gear to furnish a couch. The building also 

 contains the "guardia^" or deputy custom-house, the few soldiers belonging to which are 

 quartered in a little detached shed. These are militia, draughted for duty by the month, during 

 which time they receive a real, or twelve and a half cents, per diem. 



Around the houses are several large pasture-fields, planted in clover, for the use of cattle 

 and mule trains. They must yield a large revenue to the proprietors, as the price was, I 

 think, eighteen and three-quarter cents a head per diem; and on the night of our arrival, the 

 place was alive with mules and horses. 



On the following morning I saw illustrated, in a most striking manner, the great value of 

 the madrinas, or bell-mares. Before daylight the arrieros were out preparing to start; and as 

 there were half a dozen trains — some bound east and others west — I supposed it would be very 

 difficult to separate them. On the contrary, it was the easiest matter in the world ; each arriero 

 led off his madrina, tinkling her bell, and in a moment the difierent troops parted and followed 

 after their respective leaders. For this reason the arriero regards the madrina, or rather her 

 bell, as the apple of his eye; for, although his mules readily follow the bell on another mare, 

 they will seldom follow the mare with another bell. 



The animals most readily trained to this, or, as it is called, " amadrinado," are the offspriug of 

 mares and jacks ; those of jennets and horses being apt to leave the drove when there are horses 

 in sight, appearing to prefer the company of the latter to that of mules. 



The mule I rode was perfectly amadrinado, and gave me no little trouble whenever I wished 

 to stop for a while to make a note. I found it necessary on such occasions to make the arriero 

 dismount and hold her ; for as soon as the bell-mare was out of sight or hearing, she would 

 become exceedingly troublesome, kicking and jumping to an alarming extent, and when turned 

 loose would be ofi' at a gallop to join her companions. This is universal with well-trained 

 animals. 



The river of Uspallata is about six yards wide, knee-deep, and clear, and its water excellent. 

 In it there are quantities of small crabs of a very singular form, and a few little fish resem- 

 bling cat-fish. 



