FEOM SANTIAGO TO MENDOZA BY THE USPALLATA PASS. 5 



For about three miles the road led between cultivated fields and farm-houses, and then entered 

 on a stony mule path between two mountain spurs ; thence two miles to a small bridge, across 

 the Aconcagua, called the "Puente de Biscachas," made of two sleepers with cross-logs, and 

 without hand-rails. Here the road from Santa Kosa crosses to join this. The river at the 

 bridge is about ten yards wide, rapid, and deep. 



. At noon we stopped near the resguardo, or custom-house, on the west bank of the Rio 

 Colorado — a stream which enters the Aconcagua from the northward. It is crossed by a bridge 

 similar to the Puente de Biscachas. At 3 p. m., set out again and travelled on, constantly 

 ascending and following the bank of the river, to a grove of quillais, near the Estero de las 

 Cruces, where we stopped for the night and for work on the next day. 



Crossed a stream near a place on the bank of the river called "El Salto del Soldado," where 

 tradition tells of a soldier's having escaped his pursuers by leaping across the chasm in which 

 the river-bed lies ; then passed another stream on the south side. The hills on each side had 

 increased to mountains, but were covered with vegetation nearly to their summits; the bases 

 being tolerably well wooded, principally with quillai trees. Passed several huts and small 

 farms, and also a short ladera, or road, cut like a shelf in the side of a steep mountain, where 

 there is not room at the base for one. There are very few of the laderas dangerous to the trav- 

 eller mounted on a good mule ; but they are exceedingly perilous looking places, as the mount- 

 ain on the one hand rises almost perpendicularly, and the precipice — from which there is no 

 wall to guard one — lies on t'le oiher ; while below is the rapid mountain stream, rushing along 

 over the stones at a distance, in some places, of hundreds of feet. This ladera, called the 

 "Ladera de los Quillais," is about six feet wide, except in those parts where the bank has 

 crumbled away. 



Near our stopping-place there are two foot-bridges suspended across the stream by hide 

 thongs, and on the opposite side of the river is a large furnace for smelting coj^per ores brought 

 from a mine near by, while on this side are two or three ranches where beef and potatoes can 

 be had, and also beds of ox-hides under shelter. This rancheriais the resort of smugglers from 

 the other side of the cordillera, and the principal use of one of the foot-bridges near it, is to 

 pass over smuggled goods — tobacco generally — when there is danger from the custom-house 

 officers. 



The occupation of the people appears to be cutting firewood for the furnaces opposite, and they 

 bid fair in a short time to leave the country bare of the fine trees which now abound there. 



They appeared, to be very hospitable and polite, and invited me to share their meal; but as it 

 was the first time I had noticed their style of eating, I preferred taking my dinner in camp. 

 Five or six were seated around a very small table, on which was a wooden bowl of beef and 

 potato stew ; but there were neither plates nor'bread^ and each one helped himself from the basin 

 with a wooden or horn spoon. 



November 20.- — After making a full set of observations, packed the instruments, saddled up, 

 and at 2.30 p. M. left camp and travelled till night, when we stopped a short distance beyond 

 the first casucha. Passed on the way several streams tributary to the Aconcagua, and also a 

 house called the "Guardia Vieja," where was formerly the custom-house. Eoad always as- 

 cending, and mountains on each side tipped with snow. 



The casuchas are small brick houses with vaulted roofs, built by the old Spaniards for the 

 shelter of couriers and travellers who might be caught in snow-storms. Under the Spanish rule 

 they were provided with shelves for sleeping on, food, and firewood; but they are now without 

 even doors, the wood-work having long since been torn away, and the supply of provisions not 

 being kept up. They are so dismal and dirty, that, except in cases of great necessity, travellers 

 prefer to sleep outside. 



A few miles before arriving at camp, we saw up a valley to the northward what I supposed to 

 be a glacier — a thick shelf of green-looking ice, in a gorge near the summit of the mountains. 



A number of arrieros bound over stopped in company for the night, and we were very gay. 



