46 FROM ROSARIO TO MENDOZA. 



is not current in any of the other provinces. Stopped here for dinner and rest, for the French- 

 man was tired out, and had traveUed the last post with a iirm hoklon the crupper and pummel 

 of the saddle. 



Third post to La Cabeza del Tigre, where we stopped for the night. Road leads near the 

 south side of the Tercero, which, as its hanks are high and bare of trees, is only marked on 

 the pampa hy a dark streak. One of the peons about the place having just returned from a 

 hunting expedition, on which, with the aid of dogs, he had captured a dozen armadillos, I 

 ordered one prepared for supper, and found its flesh very savory. The meat is dai'k, and 

 resembles that of the opossum in flavor. We had a chicken to fall back on in case we did not 

 like the armadillo ; but the Frenchman, who for the first and only time volunteered his pro- 

 fessional services, spoiled it by too much seasoning. Passed the night here, and experienced 

 very sensibly one of the great inconveniences of travelling fast on horseback before being accus- 

 tomed to it. All night long in my muscles I lelt the gallop of the horse, the weight of the 

 barometer hanging across my shoulder, and the breech of the carbine thumping against my 

 back, exactly as if I had been awake and riding. 



November 10. — Our first post was to "Esquina de Lovaton," coasting the river; country 

 pampa. Saw a number of horn-plovers, and birds resembling canaries, though smaller. 



Second post to the Saladillo de Rui Diaz, where > slopped for a set of observations. This 

 place did not present the same appearance of business as on the first trip. Here I was bothered, 

 as usual, by people seeking remedies for their diseases. 



During the night — which we spent at this post — we had rain, thunder, and lightning, con- 

 fining us to the house, where our companions were fleas and lice. 



November 11. — To the post-house of Las Barrancas. First part of our ride rainy, and last 

 part clear. The master of the post at Saladillo maliciously gave me a horse that would not 

 stand to be mounted, which came very near finishing my trip suddenly. After tlie rain ceased, 

 I alighted to put my poncho on the crupper, and when about remounting, the horse dashed ofi" 

 before I could get into the saddle ; but by good luck and hanging on by his mane, I succeeded 

 in attaining my seat before he had gone far. 



The river at tlie Barrancas was only fifteen yards wide and one foot deep. It had very little 

 current, and was brackish. The post-house consists of three mud-huts, unenclosed. 



Second post to the Zanjon. Passed a rancho ; country pampa ; vegetation^ wire-grass ; river 

 bank in sight, about a mile from the road. This post-house is worse than the last ; it consists 

 of two ranchos, with the wreck of a shed for a kitchen. We could get nothing to eat there but 

 four eggs. 



From this post to the village of " Fraile Muerto" country pampa, with occasional hammocks 

 of chafiares and algarrobas. Passed several ranchos to the right and left; and also two women 

 on one horse, the oldest and ugliest of whom rode astraddle. 



Stopped in Fraile Muerto for the night, and for work on the next day. 



The village is built in an irregular and straggling manner, and contains a population of 

 about seven hundred inhabitants. It has some few comparatively good houses, the best being 

 that of the governor. The post-house is a part of his, and is the most comfortable on the road. 

 Here the attentive care of the servants of the governor, who is also master of the post, made our 

 time very pleasant. 



This gentleman appeared to use his authority over the people to a very good end. By per- 

 suasion or force he had induced them to plant fruit-trees, and build walls to enclose their 

 grounds ; had established a school, and forced them to send their children to it ; and in other 

 respects had paid such attention to the comlort and appearance of the place as to give it a much 

 more prosperous look than others of its size on the road. 



He had an intelligent and agreeable family, whom I could not help pitying for being obliged 

 to live so far removed from the refinements of the society to which they had evidently been 

 accustomed elsewhere. 



