FROM EOSAEIO TO MENDOZA. 47 



While there we saw a procession of bare-headed, and in some instances hare-breeched b') ■, 

 on their way to chapel to hear mass; the schoolmaster following them, armed with '^ ''■^•ge 

 rod, apparently for the purpose of whipping up the stragglers. They were chanting a hym n 

 a very monotonous tone. 



November 13. — First post to Las Tres Cruces. Road the same. Weather clear. Met at this 

 place a Cordovese merchant, whose galera had broken down on the road. e was very elo- 

 quent on the subject of the misfortunes to which travellers are exposed. Next, to the post of 

 "Esquina de Medrano," consisting of two tolerably good houses, and three or four ranches. 

 Eoad pretty well wooded with chailares and algarrobas. Saw a number of scissor-birds, and 

 passed the broken galera in the road. Its passengers consisted of two priestlings, on their way 

 to Buenos Ayres to receive holy orders, and two young women under charge of the merchant I 

 had met at T Cruces. 



The river at Esquina cle Medrano was nearly dry, but the water was good. We had found 

 at nearly all the post-houses, before this, very good well-water. 



The wife of the keeper of the post at Las Tres Cruces was evidently master, for which I had 

 reason to be thankful ; because the nominal master gave me a very vicious horse, which she 

 made him change for one more gentle. The postillion rode that which had been destined for 

 me ; and I was satisfied, from his tricks on the road, that I should have had a fall. 



Third post to the Arroyo de San Jose. From the Esquina de Medrano the road follows the 

 course of the river for about three miles, and then separates from the Cordova road, turning to 

 the ^vestward, at a rancheria called the Esquina de Ballesteros, consisting of twenty or thirty 

 houses. Thence to the Arroyo de San Jose, a small stream of tolerable water, about three 

 yards wide and six inches deep. It rises a short distance to the southward, and runs towards 

 the Tercero, but is absorbed before reaching it. There are a few huts on its banks, and the 

 place is known by the name of the Cabral. The post-house is nearly a league farther on. 



About half way we passed a rancho, with one or two small patches of land planted in corn ; 

 they were unenclosed, and, as usual in similar cases, a man on horseback supplied the place of 

 a fence. 



The post-house consists of an ordinary adobe dwelling, with the travellers' room adjoining, 

 and a few huts near it for the use of peons. In the absence of travellers, their room is generally 

 occupied by dogs. The master of the poht, who was a dirty old fellow, refused to let us have 

 our meal separately ; but when his own was ready, invited us to join him. It consisted of the 

 usual pampa fare — junks of beef — and was eaten in the customary manner, each one helping 

 himself from the same dish — for there were no plates — and fingers served for forks. One 

 peculiarity of these people is, that they seem to consider it necessary to spread a cloth over the 

 table; and, in nine post-houses out of ten, these are actually so filthy as to spoil any but the 

 most ravenous appetite. For this reason I always preferred to go to the fire and get my 

 dinner, as the peons do, directly from the spit. 



Passed the night here ; and in consequence of the filth of the inside, we preferred to sleep out- 

 doors. 



November 14:. — To the " Canada de Luca." Road over pampa. Passed a rancheria, and, 

 at some distance south of the road, a grove of trees. As they had no burden-horses at the last 

 post-house, my trunks were put on one not broken to packs, and he gave us great trouble on 

 the road. 



This post consists of two wretched huts, and has nothing in the world to recommend it 

 except good well-water. 



To the Tortoral. Country the same. Passed a rancho on the left and a laguna on the 

 right. The Frenchman was thrown from his horse, but, except a few bruises, suffered no harm. 

 This post-house consists of a good dwelling, a tolerably clean room for passengers, and one or 

 two out-houses, and is much more comfortable than the two preceding. Its name, Tortoral, 



