58 FROM MENDOZA TO SANTIAGO AND BACK 



•was curious to see their manoeuvres to get them out of danger when alarmed. One of the two 

 would o-o down stream a yard or so, apparently making a survey of its rapids and eddies ; then 

 perch itself on a rock and call the attention of its companion, upon which the latter would 

 leave with the young under convoy,, go over the first waterfall, take refuge in an eddy, and 

 finally climb on the rock with the brood. As soon as the pioneer saw that all were safe, it 

 would proceed to examine the next fall, and in this way they moved off down stream very 

 rapidly, iiitching at times over waterfalls of five or six feet. 



December 10. — Set out at 5 A. M. for the portillo, and at the distance of half a mile crossed 

 a stream from the southward, whose banks are both high and steep, the descent to and ascent 

 from it being difficult: hence its name of "El Mai Paso" — the bad pass. Crossed to the north 

 side of the Arroyo Grande, and about four miles farther on recrossed it and turned -to the 

 southward at the base of a high hill. Wound to the southward of this for near two miles 

 over a mass of angular rocks from the size of a hogshead to that of the fist, the only 

 sign of a pathway being that the sharp edges of the rocks were a little travel-worn. We here 

 saw the last of vegetation. From the Mai Paso we had had only low thorny shrubs among the 

 rocks, and a beautiful green velvet-looking turf on the smooth spots of ground. This turf was 

 only velvety in appearance, for on the occasion of adjusting our saddles, some of us, invited by 

 its soft look, seated ourselves for a comfortable resting spell, but were forced to spring up in all 

 haste, by finding that each particular twig carried a sharp thorn. 



After tightening the saddle-girths we commenced the ascent of the first back -bone in this part 

 of the mountains. This was slow work, for although the steepness of the road was overcome 

 by zigzags, the rarity of the atmosphere made it necessary to allow the mules to stop every fifty 

 yards and breathe. Fortunately, the sun had melted a great part of the snow, and the path 

 was easily kept, so that we arrived at the portillo about nine o'clock a. m. 



This range, as well as the western, has a break in the pass over which the road leads, 

 which has the appearance of a gate-way ; hence the name Portillo — a gap or breach. Its 

 elevation is about fourteen thousand three hundred feet above the level of the sea. 



Although the snow had melted to a great extent on the eastern side, the western was com- 

 pletely covered two or three feet deep, and was withal much more steep, so that the prospect 

 to those of us who were uninitiated looked to be full of dangers and difficulties ; but at length — 

 on foot, stumbling and wallowing in the snow-drifts — we reached the base without any damage. 

 From the foot of the "back-bone" our road was again over sharp, angular rocks and stones along 

 the south side of the stream flowing to the westward. At noon we stopped on its banks at a 

 part of it called La OUa. Vegetation here commences, and consists of very thin pasturage, 

 with occasional clumps of those thorny little shrubs I have spoken of as limiting vegetation on 

 the eastern side. This shrub is called, I think, " Cuerno de vaca" — Cow's horn — and is invalu- 

 able in the mountains for fire-wood ; its roots being large and easily torn up, and very combus- 

 tible. With the exception of mule's dung, or the back-bone and skull of an ox not long dead, 

 this is the only fuel to be found. 



After dinner we crossed to the north side of the streamlet, and as its course is very precipitous, 

 coasted the southern skirt of the spur bounding it for three miles, when we descended its 

 point to' the valley of the river Tunuyan by a steep path. This stream, which comes from the base 

 of Tupungato to the northeastward, here joins another from the west, and then turns to the south- 

 ward. At the ford, the Tunuyan is about twelve yards wide, two feet deep, and very rapid; the 

 other stream, from the westward, is eight yards wide. After crossing the Tunuyan we travelled 

 eight miles farther, and camped on the north bank of its tributary, nearly opposite a high and 

 singularly castellated mountain called the Palomares, at the base of which there is a square 

 jutting rock, hollowed out in such a manner as to present the exact apjiearance of a house. 



Passed several streams entering the "tributary" from both sides. Hills not very steep, but 

 high enough to shut out the view of the lofty ranges back of them, so that it was difficult to 

 realize that we were in the middle of the cordillera. The valley is thinly covered with pasturage^ 



