BY THE POBTILLO PASS, AND RETURN HOME. - 59 



and it is usual for drovers to stop there in order that tlieir animals may recruit. It has no 

 houses in it, but there are several small "corrals," or yards^ built by arrieros and drovers. 

 We saw a party of French artisans bound to Chile camped here, who had organized themselves 

 for the journey before leaving Buenos Ayres, and, as a matter of economy and speculation, had 

 bought some eighty mules in Kosario and on the road, some of which they used and drove the 

 rest along. They had only two peons to aid them in the care of the animals, and performed all 

 other work themselves. Their intention was to remain there until the mules were in good con- 

 dition, and then cross the second range into Chile, where they expected to sell them at such a 

 price as to make their trip profitable rather than expensive. 



It is very well to stop in the valley of the Tunuyan for this purpose, in the first part of the 

 season — for, although a snow-storm may come and block up the passes for a few days, the 

 summer's sun is certain to open them again before long — but in the fall of the year it is highly 

 dangerous. One storm succeeds another so rapidly, that there is no escape till summer comes 

 again ; and as the passes are generally closed nine months of the year, even supposing the 

 traveller to have plenty of food, he could not exist such a length of time amid the snow. Some 

 few years ago a family, consisting of several gentlemen, ladies, and children, were caught here 

 by a snow-storm. At first, they supposed the detention would be temporary ; but, as day after 

 day passed, their hopes gave place to fear, and at length the arriero — the only one of them all 

 who knew the road, or was, as they say, "vaqueano" — under pretence of examining the pass, 

 left them, and never returned. As he was never heard of, it was supposed that, in attempting 

 to escape alone, he was lost over some precipice. Their situation was now desperate ; winter 

 had fairly set in, and their provisions were failing. They therefore determined, as a last resort, 

 to attempt to reach the plain by following the Tunuyan. Killing one of the mules, and pro- 

 viding themselves with as much of the meat as they could carry, they set out. I forget how 

 long it was, but think that some weeks afterwards two or three of the party reached the plain, 

 half starved, naked, and covered with sores ; the others had perished. They were for a while as 

 badly off in the plain as they had been in the mountains. There were no habitations near, nor 

 any kind of food to be had ; but, by good fortune, they fell in with a flock of condors feasting 

 on a dead mule, from which they supplied themselves with a sufficient quantity to last them 

 to the nearest house, where they arrived looking so wretchedly that the people were frightened 

 and ran away. It was only by kneeling, and clasping their hands in the attitude of prayer, 

 like Captain Kiley and his men, that they could induce the residents to return and supply their 

 wants. 



I wish I could tell this story as it was told to me ; but for a proper appreciation it is necessary 

 to be as I was when I heard it, in the valley of the Tunuyan, with a snow-storm raging above me. 

 December 11. — Passed an uncomfortably cold night. Thermometer at 5 A. M. 29°. 5 ; wet- 

 bulb, 24°. 



Set out at 5.30 a. m., and travelled about four miles along the north bank of the tributary to a 

 point where it forks at the foot of the western portillo ; one branch entering from the westward 

 and the other from the southward ; thence one mile to a stream issuing from beneath several 

 snow-bridges, where we arrived at the foot of the second spine of the cordillera. It is almost 

 unnecessary to say that the road ascends gradually after crossing the Tunuyan. By reference 

 to the table it will be seen that the bottom of the valley is nine thousand five hundred feet 

 above the level of the sea, while the foot of the second portillo is near eleven thousand. 



By nine o'clock we had accomplished the ascent to the western portillo, and were on a spot 

 where we could stand with one foot in Chile and the other in Mendoza. The eastern side is not 

 very steep, nor are there any dangerous places on it; but the western appeared very formidable, 

 and experience proved that it did not belie its looks. 



The elevation of this pass is thirteen thousand three hundred feet, and, like the other, there 

 is really no level ground on it. The first step of the mule, after reaching the summit of the 

 ridge, and passing between the high rocks forming the portillo, is downhill. 



