Oxenford Castle. 581 



number of gentlemen's seats possessing many natural beauties, 

 but exhibiting very little good architecture or landscape-garden- 

 ing, the absence of the latter easily ascertained by the isolated 

 clumps and the want of scattered trees in the parks and lawns, 

 we come to Lauder, close to which is Thirlstane Castle. The 

 building is of great antiquity, and, besides one or two very an- 

 cient rooms, it contains a number which were richly finished in 

 the Louis XIV. style, prevalent in the time of Charles II. 

 These rooms are chiefly remarkable for their gorgeous ceilings, 

 exhibiting wreaths of fruit, foliage, and flowers, in very high 

 relief; arabesques of extraordinary combinations ; and, in some 

 of the rooms, domes raised in the centres of the ceilings, and 

 painted in imitation of the sky, with gilt stars. The beauties of 

 arabesque decoration are not generally understood. Many 

 object to them because they are not natural, but it is their fanciful 

 character which constitutes their beauty. Reason gives up the 

 reins to the fancy, and we delight to be led about by that power 

 into regions where every thing is not only new but strange. 

 Nonsense in the midst of sense is often a relief to a mind kept 

 on the rack, and arabesques are the nonsense of high art. Thirl- 

 stane Castle is undergoing extensive alterations and additions 

 under the direction of Mr. Burns, and, when finished, will pro- 

 bably be one of the finest things of the kind in Scotland. A 

 new kitchen-garden, and an extensive range of hothouses, have 

 been formed under the direction of Mr. C. H. Smith, and they 

 do him very great credit. 



The landlord of the inn at Lauder has travelled a good deal 

 in America, and is very intelligent. It is always refreshing to 

 meet with a man who has seen the world, but more especially 

 when this is unexpected. The mind delights in being trans- 

 ported from the present time and the surrounding circumstances 

 to other times and countries. Contrast of ideas is as effective in 

 producing enjoyment, as contrast of form or of light and shade 

 is in producing picturesque effect. 



In descending from the Lammermuir hills, we look down on 

 the rich plain of the Lothians as on a map. Pass on the left 

 some overpruned plantations of larches, and on the right a tem- 

 perance hotel. An excellent inn at Dalkeith. 



Aug. 4. — Oxenford Castle; the Earl of Stair. The castle is 

 in a commanding situation, but has the common fault of being 

 entered on the side that has the best views, and showing q. 

 stranger not only these, but the whole of the lawn, before he 

 alights at the main entrance. The kitchen-garden is undergoing 

 a thorough reform by Mr. Gardiner, a master in his art. A 

 great many hollies are planted in the young woods, and the 

 plants are protected from hares and rabbits by circular fences, 

 1^ ft. high, and 2 ft. 6 in. in diameter, formed entirely of the 



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