TABLE OF CONTENTS 



Page 



LIST OF TABLES iv 



LIST OF FIGURES v 



EXECUTIVE SUMMARY viii 



1.0 INTRODUCTION 1 



1 . 1 Background 1 



1 .2 Site Characteristics 1 



1.3 Project Objectives 3 



1 .4 Report Contents 5 



2.0 DESCRIPTION OF FIELD MEASUREMENT PROGRAM 6 



2. 1 Field Operations 6 



2.1.1 Field Schedule and Logistics 6 



2.1.2 Selection of Deployment Site for Moored Instrumentation 6 



2.1.3 Deployment and Recovery of Moored Instrumentation 8 



2. 1 .4 Water Column Profile Measurements 8 



2.1.5 Sediment Grab Samples 9 



2.2 Instrumentation and Data Acquisition Procedures 9 



2.2. 1 Bottom-Mounted Instrument Array 9 



2.2.2 Near-Bottom Current Velocity and Turbidity Sensors 9 



2.2.3 Post-Survey Laboratory Calibration of Turbidity Sensors 11 



2.2.4 Water Column Profiling Instrumentation 13 



2.2.5 Meteorological Observations from NO AA Buoy 44007 13 



3.0 OCEANOGRAPHIC ANALYSES 14 



3 . 1 Water Column Characteristics 14 



3.2 Surface Wave Climatology 20 



3.2.1 Time Series of Meteorological Observations 20 



3.2.2 Annual Wave Statistics 24 



3.2.3 Seasonal Wave Statistics 27 



3.2.4 Duration of Storm Waves 28 



3.2.5 Meteorological Conditions during Spring of 1 996 28 



3.3 Assessment of Currents and Physical Processes 30 



3.3.1 Analysis of Near-Bottom Currents 30 



3.3.2 Analysis of Near-Bottom Turbidity 39 



3.3.3 Analysis of Near-Bottom Currents and Turbidity during Storm 

 Events 41 



