“GRAPE MANUAL 19 
which you are planting, however strong the 
tops, or however stout and wiry the roots may 
be. One cane is sufficient to grow, and merely 
to be prepared for possible accident, both buds 
are allowed to start. The weaker of the two 
shoots may afterwards be removed or pinched 
ck. 
When planted in the fall, raise a small mound 
around your vine, so that the water will drain 
off, and throw a handful of straw or any other 
mulch on the top of the mound, to protect it; 
but do not cover the vine with manure, either 
decomposed or fresh, under any circumstances. 
It is a well authenticated fact that, under the 
action of nitrogenous agents, the grape grows 
more luxuriant, its leav ves are larger, its pro- 
defect—they impart to the wine a flavor which 
recalls the kind of manure applied. Moreover, 
nitrogenous substances exclusively used hasten 
the decay of vineyards and the exhaustion of the 
soil. 
use no manures in our vineyards, except 
the ashes of the stumps and brush, which we 
burn on the spot in clearing, and the decom- 
posed leaves of the forest, which we have to 
turn under in plowing our grounds. Other 
soils may require manures, and ours may, in 
later years. But even those authorities who fa- 
vor manures in * aring certain grounds, or 
long after planting, do not allow any decompos- 
ing organic matter to come in contact with the 
newly planted vine.* 
During the first summer, little else can be 
done than to keep the ground mellow, loose 
about the plants and free from weeds; stirring 
the ground, especially in dry weather, is the 
est stimulant, far better than liquid manure, 
and mulching (spreading over the ground a 
layer of tan-bark, sawdust, straw, salt, hay, or 
the like, to maintain a more uniform state of 
temperature and moisture for the roots) is far 
vines Tse by ade he 
fi 
or. but the Phyl a has n 
believed itself justifi ed in as aha Be that manures, tich 
and nitrogen, mixed Rodos Ikaline or earth 
sulp aes aries of salt-works, wien ash 0m, ammo- 
nia, or fat lime, have tnareennnt (ih Ssedumeiranans of the 
vines and allowed the fruit to Roessler 
of Klosternenburg. Austria, believes in gain the in- 
sect with man hosphates, a: an tash. 
treatmen 2 sands a and ey obta: 
this porosity the learned e made use of dyna- 
raising oer depth, with- 
mite. t 
out inj — — thus from a grea 
better than watering. Do not tie your young 
vines up, do not pinch off the laterals ; by allow- 
ing them to lie on the ground, during the first 
season, more vigorous stems will be obtained. 
A fair growth is about four feet the first sum- 
mer. In the fall, after the foliage is all off, cut 
back to two or three buds. Cover the short cane 
left with a few inches earth before the ground 
During the following winter, the TRELLIS 
should be built. The plan — by most of 
our experienced grape growers, as possessing 
some advantages over other plans, especially if 
as fol- 
is best) are split 3 inches thick and about 7 feet 
long, so as to be 5 feet in height after being set; 
these posts are set in holes two feet deep, 16 to 
18 feet apart in the rows (so that either 2 vines 
8 feet apart, or 3 vines 6 feet apart, are between 
two stakes), three wires are then stretched hor- 
izontally along the posts, being fastened to each 
post witha staple f), which is driven in so firmly 
that the wire is prevented from slipping through. 
The two end posts should be larger than the 
others and braced (Fig. 20), so that the contrac- 
Fig. 20.—(Four wires, 15 inches apart.) 
tion of the wire (in cold weather) will not 
loosen them. The first wire is placed about 18 
inches from the ground and the others 18 inches 
apart; this brings the upper wire about 4 feet 6 
inches from the ground. The size of wire used 
is No. 10 annealed iron; but No. 12 wire is 
40 to $60, ac- 
cording to distance of rows and number of wires 
used. 
No 12 is the size most Splise used. 
The Ludlow Saylor Wire ae — 
furnish us the cerraneee table, while may serv 
in calculating the cost 
