GRAPE MANUAL. 
21 
Fig. 23. 
these young shoots, if there are three, leave on- 
y the two strongest, tying them neatly to the 
trellis, and let them grow nnchecked to the up- 
permost wire. 
— 
With the strong-growing varieties, especially | 
where we intend to grow the fruit on laterals or 
spurs, the two main canes are pinched off when 
they reach the second horizontal wire, whereby 
the laterals are forced into stronger growth, 
each forming a medium-sized cane, which is 
shortened in the fall from four to six buds. One 
of the two main canes may be layered in June, 
covering it with mellow soil, about an inch 
deep, leaving the ends of the laterals out of the 
ground. These will generally make good plants 
in the fall for further plantations; with varie- 
ties which do not grow easily from cuttings, 
this method is particularly desirable. Fig. 23 
shows the vines tied and pruned, accordingly, 
at the end of the second season (the cross lines 
through the canes showing where they are cut 
off or pruned). 
Another good mode of training, recommended 
by Fuller, is to bend down in fall, at the end of 
the second season, the two main canes of the 
vines (the laterals of which have been pinched 
back to concentrate the growth into these main 
canes) in opposite directions, laying and tying 
them against the lower wire or bar of the trellis, 
as shown in figure 22, and shortening them to 
four feet each. Then let five or six of the 
buds on the upper side of the arms be grown in- 
to upright canes. 
wanted for upright canes, should be 
broken off. This latter method is not well 
adapted for varieties which require covering in 
winter. Where the canes are started -lower, 
near the ground, and cut loose from the wire, 
they can be easily covered with earth. 
At the commencement of the third season (un- 
cover and) tie the canes to the trellis, as shown 
before. For tying, any soft string or stout 
woolen yarn, the shreds of old gunnies, may be 
used; some obtain their tying material from 
basswood-bark, soaked for two weeks or longer 
in running water. Mr. Husmann 
recommends to plant the Golden 
Willow or any other willow (Pur- 
urea Vinivalis), and to use its 
small twigs for tying purposes. Tie 
tightly, and as young canes grow, 
keep them tied, but, in all cases, 
take care against tying too tightly, 
as the free flow of sap may be ob- 
structed. 
| The ground is now plowed and hoed again, 
as described before 
preceding figures), canes can be 
ring the third year, and each of ite canes 
will probably bear two or three bunches of - 
fruit. There is danger of their being injured 
should be tLinned out by taking away all im- 
perfect bunches and feeble shoots. In order to 
secure future fruitfulness of the vine, and to 
keep it at the same time in our convenient con- 
_ trol, we should allow no more wood to grow 
than we need for next seasops’ bearing, and for 
this purpose we resort to Spring pruning, gen- 
erally, though improperly, called: 
SUMMER PRUNING. 
The time to perform the first summer pruning 
is when the young shoots are about six inches 
long, and when you can see plainly all the small 
bunches—the embryo fruit. We commence at 
the lower two spurs, having two buds each, and 
both started. One of them we intend for a 
bearing cane next summer; therefore, allow it 
to grow unchecked for the present, tying it, if 
long enough, to the lowest wire. Th her, 
which we intend for a spur again next fall, we 
pinch with the thumb and finger to just beyond 
Fig. 2. Fig. 25. 
the last bunch or button, taking out gio leader 
between the last bunch and the next leaf, as 
shown in fig. 24, the cross line uaa where 
the leader is to be pinched off. e now come 
