22 BUSHBERG CATALOGUE. 
to the next spur, on the opposite side, where 
we also leave one cane to grow unchecked, and 
pinch off the other. 
We now go over all the shoots coming from 
the arms or laterals tied to the trellis, and also 
pinch them beyond the last bunch. Shonld any 
of the buds have pushed out two shoots, we rub 
off the weakest; we also take off all barren or 
weak shoots. If any of them are not sufficiently 
developed we pass them over, and go over the 
vines again, in a few days after the first pinch- 
ing. 
The bearing branches having all been pinched 
back, we can leave our vines alone until after 
the bloom, only tying up the young canes from 
the spurs, should it become necessary. But do 
not tie them over the bearing canes, but lead 
them to the empty space on both sides of the 
vine, as our object must be to give the fruit all 
the air and light we can. 
By the time the grapes have bloomed, the lat- 
erals will have pushed from the axils of the 
leaves on the bearing shoots. Now go over 
these again, and pinch each loderal back to one 
leaf, as shown in fig. 25. Ina short time, the 
laterals on the fruit bearing branches which 
have been pinched will throw out suckers again. 
These are stopped again, leaving one leaf of the 
young growth. Leave the laterals on the canes 
intended for next years’ fruiting to grow un- 
checked, tying them neatly with bass or paw- 
paw bark, or with rye straw to the wires. 
If you prefer training your vines on the hori- 
zontal arm system (fig. 22) the mode of summer 
pruning will be in the main the same. Pinch 
off the end of each upright shoot as soon as it 
has made two leaves beyond the last bunch of 
fruit; the shoots after being stopped will soon 
start, and after growing a few inches should be 
stopped again, as we wish to keep them within 
the limits of the trellis, and the laterals should 
be stopped beyond its first leaf. Thus we try 
to keep the vine equally balanced in fruit, foli- 
age and wood. It will be perceived that fall 
pruning, or shortening-in the ripened wood of 
the vine, and summer pruning, i Ag 
and thinning out the young growth, have o 
and the same object in view, namely, to Rey 
the production of and ripening of the most per- 
fect fruit, and the production of strong, healthy 
wood for the coming season’s crop. Both ope- 
rations are, in fact, only different parts of one 
and the same system, of which summer pruning | 
is the preparatory, and fall pruning the finishing 
part; but while the vine will bear, without ap- 
parent injury, any reasonable amount of prun- 
ing during its dormant state, in fall or winter, 
any severe cutting during summer is an unmit- 
igated evil. G. W. Campbell, the well-known. 
horticulturist, says: ‘‘All the summer pruning 
I would recommend, would be the early rub- 
bing out of superfluous shoots, upon their first: 
appearance; leaving only what is required for 
next years’ bearing wood. This, with the 
pinching or stopping the ends of such shoots or 
canes as were disposed to be too rampant in 
growth, would be all I would ever consider 
necessary. Some of the most successful grape 
growers within my knowledge, carefully prune 
their vines in fall or early spring, and then 
leave them entirely without summer pruning.” 
The importance of this matter is so great that 
we subjoin— 
HUSMANN’S METHOD OF SUMMER PRUNING 
[Extract from his excellent articles in the lige Cul- 
turist’? on this most important operation.] 
Without proper and judicious summer prun- 
ing, it is impossible to prune judiciously in the 
fall. Ifyou have allowed six to eight canes to 
grow in summer where you need but two or 
three, none of them will be fit to bear a full 
crop, nor be properly developed. We prune 
longer in fall than the majority of our vintners, 
which gives a double advantage; should the 
frost of winter have injured or killed any of the 
first buds, we still have enough left; and should 
this not be the case, we still have our choice to 
rub off all imperfect shoots; to reduce the num- 
ber of bunches at the first pinching, and thus 
retain only strong canes for the next years’ 
fruiting, and have only large, well developed 
bunches. | 
But to secure these advantages we have cer- 
tain rules, which we follow strictly. We are 
glad to see that the attention of the grape grow- 
ers of the country is thoroughly aroused to the 
importance of this subject, and that the old 
practice of cutting and slashing the young 
growth in July and August is generally dis- 
countenanced. It has murdered more promising 
vineyards than any other practice. But people 
to run into extremes, and many are now 
advocating the ‘ jet-nlons,” 2 doctrine. We think 
th are wrong, steer 
is in the middle. 
1. Perform the operation EARLY. Do it as 
soon as the shoots are six inches long. At this 
time you can oversee your vine much easier. 
Every young shoot is soft and pliable. You do 
