BUSHBERG 
CATALOGUE. 
FALL OR WINTER PRUNING. 
This may be performed at any time, dur- 
ing mild days, while the vine is in a dormant 
state, generally from November to March, but 
should be done at least a week before vegeta- 
tion is likely to commence. Tender varieties, 
which require covering, must, of course, be | 
mber 
pruned in Nove 
Different varieties will require somewhat dif- 
ferent treatment, some varieties (strong grow- 
ers) will fruit better if pruned to spurs on old 
wood, than on the young canes, retaining the 
healthy, strong 
whereas, others (only moderate growers) will 
flourish and bear best when pruned short and 
to a cane of last season’s growth. 
e observing vintner will find some hints 
in our descriptive catalogue, but only by prac- 
tice and experience can he learn the best method 
for each varie 
The fellcteton are the views of Mr. Husmann 
on this subject: 
Some varieties will bear more readily and 
larger bunches upon the laterals of the young 
canes, some upon the spurs of a few eyes on old 
bearing branches, and some will fruit readily 
upon the principal canes. This should govern 
you in i 
Most of the strong growers of the Labrusca 
species, wena Hartford, Ives, Martha, Per- 
kins, etc.,) as as some of its more vigorous 
Hybrids, i Wilder, etc.,) and especially 
some Austivalis, (Herbemont, Cunningham, 
Louisiana, Rulander,) will fruit best on the lat- 
erals of the young canes of last summer’s growth 
provided they are strong enough, which they 
will be if they have been pinched according to 
our directions; the fruit buds at the base of the 
principal canes are seldom well developed, and 
will not bring much fruit. We therefore grow 
the fruit on the laterals, which can be shortened 
in to from two to six eyes each, according to 
their strength. All these rank growers should 
have plenty to do, that is they should be pruned 
class (Cynthiana and Norton’s Virginia), pro- 
duce best on spurs on two or three year old canes; 
they = also bear better on sngpead on laterals 
n main canes, but do not produce their 
best ah until they can be ‘‘ spurred in” on old 
arms. For this purpose, select for your spurs 
strong, well ripened shoots, cut them back two 
to three eyes each, and cut out all the small and 
imperfect ones. You may leave from thirty to 
fifty buds, according to the strength of your 
vine, and always bear in mind that you can re- 
duce the aneinsien of bunches, when summer 
pruning. 
A third class obaeaie readily andabundantly 
from the main canes. This comprises the vari- 
ties which do not grow very strong, the more 
tender Labrusca and all of more or less Vinifera 
characteristics, viz: the Alvey, Cassady, Creve- 
ling, Catawba, Delaware, Iona, Rebecca.— 
These will produce best on short canes of say 
six eyes, short pruning, and the old renewal 
plan may be as good as any for them. There is 
also much more danger of overtasking (his class 
than both of the others, and they should never 
be allowed to bear too much. 
Grape Culturist, Nov. 1870. 
From the above it will be seen that different 
methods apply to different varieties, and we 
may add that they ought to be also modified ac- 
cording to other circumstances. Those, there- 
fore, who have recommended various and con- 
in mind the intelligent vintner will soon learn 
how far one or the other systems is best appli- 
cable in his case. 
SUBSEQUENT MANAGEMENT. 
We may now consider the vine as fully estab- 
lished, able to bear a full crop, and when tied 
to the trellis in spring, to present the appear- 
ance as shown in fig. 26 
(Fig. 26.) 
The operations are precisely the same as in 
the third year. If you train your vines on the 
horizontal system, the upright canes, which 
were pruned back to two buds each, will now 
produce two shoots each, If more than one 
shoot should proceed from each of these two 
buds, or if other shoots should start from small 
