CHAPTER XV. 



THE YAK. 



POEPHAGUS GRUNNIENS. 



In Thibet. — Donkh. On the Indian Frontier. — Ban Ckdor. 



THE wild Yak is generally found on the lofty plains and mountains in the interior of 

 Thibet, where vast herds are said to exist. But few places, where it is found, are accessible to 

 Englishmen, as the Thibetan Government jealously exclude all European travellers from 

 their country. A few sportsmen have indeed succeeded in penetrating for several marches 

 into forbidden ground (either by going in disguise or by cleverly eluding the vigilance of 

 the Tartars who guard the frontier), and have shot Yak in the mountains to the north of the 

 Sutlej. Such expeditions are, however, still more difficult than they formerly were, as the 

 Thibetans are more particular than ever, and are moreover too sharp to allow themselves 

 to be again deceived by the stratagems which have already been successfully employed 

 against them. 



Formerly Yak were always to be found in the valleys between the Ni'ti Pass and the 

 Sutlej, and sportsmen were allowed to shoot there without interference, so long as they 

 confined themselves to certain limits. The Yak were so constantly hunted in this district, 

 that of late years they appear to have grown shy of crossing the Sutlej, and there is but 

 little chance of finding them in their old haunts. 



Yak have been shot on the northern slopes of the Kara Koram mountains, but the best 

 place to go to for them is undoubtedly the valley of Chung Chenmo. Here they are, cer- 

 tainly, only occasional visitors, but they are often to be found, and now that the new 

 route to Yarkund has been discovered, it is only necessary to go a few marches farther north 

 to be quite sure of finding them, if they don't happen to be on the southern side of the 

 passes. 



The male wild Yak is a magnificent beast : he attains a height of fifteen hands or more, 

 but stands on very short legs. He is nearly jet black, with the exception of a little white 

 about the muzzle and a sprinkling of grey hairs on the head and neck. The hair is very 

 long and shaggy, especially on the shoulders, thighs, and sides, where it hangs in heavy 

 masses nearly reaching the ground ; so that one can hardly see daylight under an old bull 

 in his winter coat. 



