July 21, 1888] 



THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE. 



69 



The Flower Garden. 



Violets. — The Neapolitans and the Russian varie- 

 ties that were planted out in prepared borders a few 

 weeks ago for flowering in frames in the winter, 

 should be examined, cutting off all runners as fast as 

 they appear, so as to get strong plants for lifting 

 early in October. This point is one of much im- 

 portance where quality as well as quantity of blooms 

 is required. Stir frequently the surface soil between 

 the plants, keep them free from weeds, nnd in all cases 

 where the foliage is not of a satisfactory colour apply 

 a light dressing of some artificial manure. 



Antirrhinums and Pcntstemons. — Put in cuttings of 

 all named and any choice unamed varieties that it is 

 desired to perpetuate. For this purpose use a com- 

 post consisting of finely sifted loam, leaf-mould and 

 silver-sand, and choose shoots about 3 inches long, 

 and in a half-ripened state. Remove the bottom 

 leaves and cut just below a joint. The pots, 4 to 

 5 inches, should be well drained, and after watering 

 the cuttings they should be placed in a frame and kept 

 shaded from bright sunshine till rooted, syringing 

 overhead, occasionally. Pentstemons may also be pro- 

 pagated under handlights on a north border. Florists' 

 varieties of Phlox acuminata may also be treated in 

 the same manner. After the cuttings are rooted put 

 the pots in a position where they will get plenty of sun 

 and air, so as to obtain sturdy plants for standing 

 through the winter. 



Subtropical Plants. — Soft-wooded subjects raised 

 from seed the current season must have the leading 

 stems tied to stout stakes, Ricinus, Nicotiana, many 

 of the Solanums, and Cannabis gigantea being 

 amongst those that will bear no neglect in this 

 respect. Do not make the ties too tight, and see 

 that the lower ones are not cutting into the stems. 

 The last-named species, if planted in groups, will 

 need a certain amount of thinning out, and the 

 strongest side shoots stopping occasionally — i.e., if 

 growing in small beds, and the soil is covered with 

 Alternantheras, Mesembryanthemums, or other very 

 dwarf plants. 



Hollyhocks. — Put in cuttings of these, choosing 

 side shoots with a heel, and not too long. Use 

 clean pots, with plenty of drainage and a sandy 

 compost, containing some finely-sifted leaf-mould ; 

 press down moderately firmly, insert the cuttings 

 round the sides of the pots, and place them in 

 a frame where they can have the assistance of a 

 gentle bottom-heat; the cuttings must be well 

 shaded till rooted, after which pot off singly and 

 harden in due course. Care must be taken to avoid 

 too much moisture until it is seen that they have 

 taken root, for being of a soft nature they soon damp 

 off in the frames. J. Horseficld, Heytcsbury. 



The Hardy Fruit Garden. 



Peaches avd Nectarines. — Trees should now be 

 looked over frequently, and the laterals kept per- 

 sistently pinched-in on trees bearing full crops. 

 Give the fruit light and air by fastening the 

 foliage on one side, and if a few leaves are removed 

 altogether it will do no harm, provided the trees are 

 perfectly healthy and will not feel the loss of them. 

 Trees carrying heavy crops should be assisted by an 

 occasional sprinkling of guano on the borders just 

 before rain. 



Apricots. — The fruit is now swelling fast, and the 

 trees should be looked over frequently to see that 

 none of the fruit gets spoilt by beingsqueezed against 

 wall-nails ; at the same time be careful not to expose 

 them fully to the sun. Apricots ripen better and 

 the fruit is finer when it is shaded by the foliage. 

 Syringe the trees two or three times a week to keep 

 in check insects of all kinds, some of which, notably 

 woodlice, harbour in the rough bark of the stems 

 and branches. The last-named depredators do a 

 great amount of mischief to the fruit by gnawing it. 



Thinning the Fruits of Apples and Pears. — The 

 rain, which has fallen heavily in this district, and 

 generally all over the country, has been of great 

 assistance in swelling up the fruit, and in cleansing 

 the trees of insects. Apples and Pears bearing 

 heavy crops may now be thinned of superfluous 

 fruits at once, and by so doing increase the size of 

 the fruits, and also afford the trees a better chance 

 of bearing the following year. When thinning, the 

 depredations of birds should be taken into con- 

 sideration, as likewise the character of the variety, 

 and it may generally be said that a greater number 



of a small variety may be left on a tree than would 

 be the case were the fruits large. Push on with the 

 summer pruning. 



Layering Strawberries. — Opportunities have been 

 afforded lately on wet days to get the pots filled with 

 soil, so that they will now be in readiness. It is a 

 recognised fact that layering of the plants in pots is 

 the more preferable method, and if layered early, so 

 that the plants get well established before winter 

 sets in, they bear fairly well the first season. Of 

 course runners lifted direct from the ground with a 

 little soil attached to the roots and planted make 

 good plants, but however well they may be attended 

 to, they will not compare with plants that are layered 

 in pots. It is a good plan to begin by partly plung- 

 ing the pots in the ground between the rows, as this 

 will help to save labour in watering. Select the 

 strongest runners, and pinch off all growths 

 beyond the young plants, and then either peg 

 them to the soil or lay a stone on them to 

 hold them in position till rooted. After the 

 requisite number is layered, continually remove the 

 runners which arise. The forced plants had better be 

 planted at once, the ground being now in fine con- 

 dition to receive them, and if the balls are soaked 

 a few hours previous to planting, they will not 

 require further watering; but with a view to save 

 labour, should dry weather set in mulch between 

 the rows with old Mushroom dung, or such-like 

 material. The forced plants of Vicomtesse Hericart 

 de Thury should be accorded a nice warm nook 

 under a wall — one facing south would be best. They 

 must be attended to, and well watered during dry 

 weather, removing the runners as soon as they 

 appear ; they will then give excellent results in the 

 autumn, when a dish of Strawberries is a luxurv. 

 A. Ward, Stoic Edith Gardens, Hereford. 



Fruits Under Glass. 



Peaches. — The early houses from which the fruit 

 has been cut should receive all the air possible and 

 the inside borders a good watering every ten or 

 fourteen days. Where any of the trees have not 

 done satisfactorily, or have shown signs of decline, the 

 present is a suitable time to examine the seat of 

 mischief. Choose a cloudy day and cut out a trench 

 to the depth of the border at about 6 feet from the 

 stem, then, with a steel fork, proceed to prick out 

 the soil from amongst the roots, nsing all possible 

 caution not to damage any of the roots, clearing all 

 the soil away as the work progresses. It may not be 

 necessary to disturb the tree entirely, unless the 

 soil be in a very soured, wet state, and in this case 

 the whole of it should be removed. The drainage 

 should be examined and pnt in order, no trouble 

 being spared in a matter of this kind, but let the 

 job be done thoroughly. When everything is ready 

 for the reception of the new soil place a layer of 

 turf, grassy side downwards, over the drainage, and 

 then proceed to fill up with fresh compost. 

 This should not be of too rich a nature, else 

 gross growth is apt to be the result. Add a 

 liberal quantity of charred soil and old mortar to the 

 compost — the first to promote the development of 

 fibry roots, the second to aid in building up the 

 stone of the fruit. Fill up the border to within 

 8 inches of the desired level, and then proceed to 

 lay out the roots which have been disturbed in 

 proper form. Give them a good dusting over with 

 Vine manure and fine soil (the larger proportion 

 charred), and when a few inches of the ordinary com- 

 post have been placed over the roots a good watering 

 with tepid water should be given. After this has 

 drained away fill up to the level ; shade the trees 

 until it can be seen they are making fresh roots, 

 giving heavy syringings thrice a day. 



Succession Houses. — Keep the atmosphere cool in 

 houses where the fruit is ripe. See that the border does 

 not become too dry. or the fruit will not hang so 

 long as might be wished, but rather water if there 

 beany danger of it being dry ; maintain a dry warm 

 atmosphere in houses where the fruit is ripening : and 

 should the weather be dull and sunless, a little heat 

 in the hot-water apparatus will promote high flavour 

 and finish. See that trees in all stages of growth with 

 crops swelling have sufficient water at the root ; and 

 if the trees should be old ones, assistance with weak 

 guano-water should be afforded them. Attend to 

 the tying in of the requisite amount of young shoots ; 

 pinch all laterals and strong shoots. Push aside the 

 foliage from the fruit, so as to give the latter all the 

 benefit of direct sunlight. W. M. Baillie, Luton Hoo. 



The Kitchen Garden. 



Cabbages. — The earliest sowing should be got in 

 between this date and August lithe exact time will 

 vary in different localities, and this can only be 

 learnt from experience ; but when removing to a 

 fresh place it is well for the gardener to ascertain 

 the practice of those residing in the district. I find 

 August 4 about the best time here in the average of 

 seasons, but as a general rule in late districts the seeds 

 should be sown earlier, and the warmer ones later. It 

 is well to make three sowings at intervals of ten days, 

 and to sow the earliest crop in rows, so that a number 

 of the best plants may be left to mature without 

 being removed. By this means they are readv to cut 

 much earlier in the spring, and are not so liable to 

 run, they not suffering any check by removal. Stuart 

 & Mein's No. 1 is one of the best of the early 

 varieties ; it also stands longer without cracking than 

 some others. Ellam's Early is also very useful for the 

 first sowing ; and as a main crop variety Enfield 

 Market is excellent. Some seeds of Red Dutch 

 should be sown with the second sowing. 



French Beans. — A few of these should be sown now 

 on a border where they can be covered with a frame 

 in September, thus prolonging the season consider- 

 ably. Sir Joseph Paxton and Ne Plus Ultra are 

 good varieties. A few Chelsea Gem Peas may also 

 be treated in the same way, and these will prolong 

 the supply after the other varieties are killed by the 

 frost. Both the Peas and Beans should be sown in 

 rows 18 inches apart. 



Clwu de Burghley, sown as previously mentioned 

 for the latest crop, will now be ready for planting 

 out, and although perfectly hardy it is much assisted 

 by a little extra warmth in February, it should 

 therefore have a sheltered position in cold districts — 

 a south border if possible — and be planted in rows 

 2 feet apart and 18 inches in the rows. Thus treated 

 it will be fit to cut in February and March. It 

 resembles yonng Cabbages, with the additional re- 

 commendation of being much better in flavour. 



When lifting the early Potatos enough roots 

 should be left to come to maturity in order to get 

 some good tubers for forcing next year, as large sets 

 make a great difference in this crop, and it is often 

 impossible to purchase them. I have found Sharpe's 

 Victor very quick and useful as a first early outside, 

 but it is not to be compared with the Ashleaf for 

 quality. If a few old Potatos of the late varieties 

 are kept for a time on dry, airy shelves without 

 growing much they will give a supply of new Potatos 

 at Christmas, if placed in layers of damp sawdust in 

 a Mushroom-house early in September. 



Herbs of most kinds will now be ready for drying. 

 They should be cut when in flower and dried gradu- 

 ally by spreading them out in a cool and shady 

 position, in order to retain their flavour, and after- 

 wards tied in bunches and hung up in a similar 

 position where they will be secure from dust, &c. 



More seeds of Endive and some Brown Cos Lettuce 

 should also be sown. W. H. Divers, Ketton Hall, 

 Stamford. 



PLANT PORTRAITS. 



Anthi-rium Scherzerianfm vab. Warocquea- 

 num, Illustration Hortico/e, June, 1888, t. 51. 



Aster alpixcs, Gartenfiora. t. 1276. 



Ci.eisostoma CRASsiFoi-icai, Lindcnia, t. 139. 



Co3logtke cristata and C. c. var. Lemomana, 

 L'Orchidnphile, July. 



Cyprii'edium Cubtisii, Lindrnia, t. 140. 



Hakea laurina, Bidlctino delta B. Socicta Tii- 

 cana di Orticultura, June, 1888. 



Odontoglossum citrosmum var. Devansatanfn, 

 Lindcnia, t. 137. 



Odostoglossum Rossi majus, Revue de VHorticid- 

 turc Beige, July. 



Oncidicsi Papiiio var. majus, Lindcnia, t. 13S. 



Trichopilia Lehmanxi, Gartenfiora, t. 1276 (2). 



Zephyranthes GRANDIII.ORA, Illustration Horticol., 

 June, L888, t. 49. 



Trade Notice. 



We are requested to state that Mr. A. W. Crews, 

 late manager of the Chad Valley Nurseries,^ has 

 commenced business on his own account, at Glou- 

 cester, in conjunction with Mr. A. C. Cox, late of 

 Messrs. Hugh Low & Co.'s nurseries. 



