Acgcst 11, 1888.] 



THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE. 



157 



how pertinaciously these bulbous plants keep to 

 their original seasons. Of course I Jo not mean to 

 say that they cannot be forced out of their natural 

 season, but if it is done it requires a considerable 

 amount of skill and care to do it successfully. But 

 even then, if the forcing is discontinued, they soon 

 return to the normal time of starting, which is about 

 August and September, consequently the present 

 time would be most fitting to give the stock a general 

 overhaul ; besides, fresh importations of bulbs are 

 now arriving, and could be conveniently incorporated 

 with the collection. 



In examining the collection, if the drainage is 

 good and the bulbs not overcrowded, they need not 

 necessarily be completely shaken out — merely remove 

 the loose and inert soil from the pots, and top-dress 

 with some light rich fibry loam to which has been 

 added a mild and pulverised manure, or a pinch of 

 some prepared fertiliser may be put on the surface 

 of the old soil, and covered with the new soil. If 

 the loam employed be inclined to be heavy some 

 fibrous peat would be beneficial. In "potting 

 use rather deep pots, but not larger than 

 would be fairly well filled with roots. If the 

 pots are too large the soil is apt to get water-logged 

 and soured — conditions very unfavourable to the 

 welfare of any plants. The pots should be stood on or 

 plunged in some moisture-holding material, and no 

 more water given than is actually necessary to keep 

 the soil in a moderately moist condition until the 

 plants are fairly under weigh, and the pots well 

 filled with roots. Most of these bulbs require the 

 temperature of a greenhouse — some more so than 

 others, such as those from the latitude of Natal ; 

 while those from the Cape do best in cold frames, 

 viz., Babianas, Ixias, Sparaxis, Anomathecas, Tricho- 

 nemas, Ornithogalum thyrsoides, the Australian 

 Calostemmas, and such-like, may be instanced. 

 Then there is a set which, while growing well in a 

 cool temperature, yet like more head-room, of which 

 section are Watsonias, Antholyzas, Moraas, Gla- 

 diolus, and Albucas. For the first group, 6-inch 

 pots should be the maximum size used, but in the 

 second group double that size may be used with 

 advantage, provided there are plenty of bulbs to well 

 fill the pots. 



There is yet another group, which comprises the 

 more strictly speaking greenhouse bulbs requiring 

 something near to our summer temperature all the 

 year round. And it is in this group that the most 

 striking and beautiful subjects are found, whether it 

 be the huge elephantine leaves and brilliant flowers 

 of the Iliemanthus, or the dwarf prettily marked 

 foliage and flower-spikes of the genus Lachenalia — 

 the tall inflorescence that arises from the great bulbs 

 of such as Brunsvigia Josephines — the curious brush- 

 like scape from the Eucomis, the showy flowering 

 Nerines, as seen in Xerine (Fothergillij curvifolia 

 and sarniensis, the " Guernsey Lily," the elegant 

 genus Cyrtanthus, and the terrestrial Orchids, Lisso- 

 chilus, with their stately flower-spikes, are all distinct 

 enough to be included in any one collection. A mild 

 airy temperature, from 50° to 60°, during the winter 

 and growing season, should be maintained. In sum- 

 mer, when they are at rest, with full exposure to the 

 sun. protecting the bulbs from heavy rains, thev may 

 be stood out-of-doors until the nights become too 

 cool for them, or thev show signs of again starting 

 into growth. F. Ross, Pendcll Court. 



The Flower Garden. 



Haedy wall plants and climbers require close atten- 

 tion now, and ought to be looked over once a week 

 at least. In training the plants avoid overcrowding, 

 and cut out all weak and spindly growths as well as 

 dead flowers, and in doing so keep a sharp look-out 

 for insects and mildew. Examine such plants as 

 were planted last autumn, and see that they do not 

 suffer from dryness at the roots, for notwithstanding 

 all the rain we have had recently it is quite possible 

 for plants in certain positions to need watering by 

 hand, and on that point it is as well not to be 

 deluded by the state ot the weather at any time 

 between now and the end of the growing season. 



Mixed beds and borders of hardy perennials have 

 been particularly interesting and attractive this sum- 

 mer, as, in spite of the unpropitious weather exper- 

 ienced, their flowering has been profuse. Unremitting 

 attention is required just now to keep them in good 

 order. Where seed is not wanted the flower-stems 

 should be cut off from the plants as soon as the bloom- 

 ing is over, but do not treat all things alike by cutting 



the stems off at the base or within 2 or .'! inches of 

 the ground. To adopt that practice with some 

 species is tantamount to taking half the plant's life 

 away, and giving it an unsightly appearance for the 

 remainder of the season. For instance double 

 flowered Pvrethrums ought not to be cut nearer to 

 their crowns than from 12 to 15 inches, for the 

 radical leaves are so few that it is only the stem 

 leaves that give the plants anything like a presentable 

 look till they die down in the autumn; not only that, 

 but when the stems are cut close to the ground, it is 

 impossible for the crowns to get properly matured 

 for the succeeding year. Delphiniums may be left 

 2 feet long, Aquilegias and other plants that produce 

 an abundance of radical or bottom leavesshould have 

 the stems cut down to the same level as the leaves. 

 Attend to late flowering species such as the Michael- 

 mas Daisies, Chrysanthemum lacustre, Tyrethrum 

 uliginosum, Solidago canadense, &c, which should 

 be kept securely tied to stout stakes to prevent 

 damage in windy weather and from thunderstorms. 

 Keep the borders free from weeds, and do not trample 

 on the soil in its present state any more than is 

 absolutely necessary. 



Dahlia* should have the leaders tied to their sup- 

 ports as fast as growth is made, and at the same time 

 cut out any weak and spindly shoots that may be 

 growing out near the base of the plants. From' this 

 time onwards earwigs will be agreat pest among these ; 

 a good method of trapping them is by placing at in- 

 tervals beanstalks cut into 6-inch lengths andplaced 

 among the branches: these should be examined every 

 morning. Small flower-pots with a little dry moss or 

 hay inside, and placed on the top of the stakes, may 

 also be used. 



Finis. — Cuttings of these that were put in pots 

 and placed in a little peat as recommended last 

 month are now rooted, and should be transferred to 

 cold frames to harden off preparatory to planting out 

 in beds at a later period. It is not yet too late to 

 put in cuttings, but their propagation, if a stock of 

 young plants is desired, ought not to be further de- 

 layed, and they should have the benefit of a mild 

 bottom-heat. J. Horsefield, Heytabury. 



The Hardy Fruit Garden. 



Wall Trees. — All Pear, Plum and Cherry trees 

 once more demand attention in the way of stopping 

 and training of the shoots. The recent wet, sunless 

 weather has caused the trees to make a quantity of 

 weak, sappy growth without any of the young wood 

 becoming ripened, therefore leave no more young 

 wood than is absolutely required, spurring back the 

 breastwood and giving the shoots that are retained, 

 and also the buds on the fruiting spurs, every chance 

 of becoming properly matured, by admitting plenty 

 of light and air. Tack or tie in the young shoots. 

 The Young growths on Morello Cherries require 

 tacking in, after which — if not already done — they 

 should be netted to protect the fruit from the birds. 

 Apricots will also want looking over and pinching 

 in. With US the trees have lost but few branches 

 this season by suddenly dying oft* the Moor Park 

 being a notable example, because it is a notorious 

 fact that that variety is always the worst to do so. 



G, neral Work. — As soon as the nets can be re- 

 moved from the Strawberry beds they may be trans- 

 ferred to the Currant and Gooseberry bushes, to 

 protect the fruit which is required for late use. If 

 they are not wanted they should be well dried and 

 stored away. Before putting the nets over the 

 bushes hand-weed the ground under and between 

 them, for it is useless to attempt to hoe unless the 

 weather changes. Old Strawberry plants which have 

 done bearing, and which are not considered worth 

 retaining, should be grubbed up, and the ground 

 cleared. The same site may be manured, dug, and 

 planted again if desired, but it is always better to 

 have a change of ground. As the layered runners 

 are now ready for setting out, preparations should at 

 once be made, and the ground manured, dug, and 

 allowed a few days in which to settle before the 

 planting is done. 



In selecting a site for Strawberries, it is always 

 best to choose a piece of ground where the soil is of 

 rather a heavy nature, but not too wet; but if such 

 cannot be had, and the soil is of a light nature, the 

 same can be made much more adapted for the pur- 

 pose by applying a heavy dressing of good sound 

 loam, which should be dug in, and well incorporated 

 with the soil. For light soils a dressing of loam is 

 far preferable to the application of large quantities 



of manure. Soils of rather a heavy nature should 

 be liberally, but not too heavily, manured, and eveu 

 then a light dressing of loam is beneficial, especially 

 if the staple soil is of rather a scanty nature. 



Look over autumn fruiting Raspberries, and keep 

 the canes tied to the wires, removing all suckers 

 as soon as they appear above the ground. This 

 latter detail must be well attended to, as the suckers 

 rot the fruiting-canes. 



The summer fruiting varieties should have the old 

 canes cut away as soon as the fruit is gathered ; and 

 if not already done, the young canes should be 

 reduced in number, leaving about eight or ten, 

 which can again be thinned to the requisite number 

 next spring. A. Ward, Stoke Edith Gardens, Hereford. 



The Kitchen Garden. 



Spinach.— A good-sized plot of this should now be 

 sown for the winter supply ; the prickly variety is the 

 best for this purpose : it prefers a light warm soil in 

 the winter, and a south border or similarly sheltered 

 position should be given to it if possible, as a much 

 heavier yield may be got by this means. If the soil 

 is heavy and cold a good dressing of leaf-soil or 

 charred refuse should be forked in previous to the 

 sowing: it is best thinly sown in rows IS inches 

 aoart, the young plants to be afterwards thinned to 

 4 inches apart. 



Carrots.— A small bed of the Shorthorn varieties 

 may now be sown on a warm border for use early in 

 the spring before the forced ones are ready ; the soil 

 for these should be rather firm, or they will be drawn 

 out by the frost in the winter ; a good dressing of 

 half-rotten leaf-mould between the rows about the 

 middle of October will be of assistance in preventing 

 this. 



Tripoli Onions. — These generally succeed best if 

 sown in beds in the autumn and transplanted to their 

 summer quarters early in the spring ; a good position 

 and rather light soil should be given them now. 

 The red-skinned varieties are the best in constitution, 

 and are not so liable as the white kinds to be attacked 

 by blight in the spring. In very cold and wet 

 districts, where it is a difficult matter to get the 

 White Spanish and similar varieties harvested by 

 spring sowing, it is advisable to sow them in the 

 autumn instead; they are equally as hardy as the 

 Tripoli varieties, and are by this means ready to 

 harvest several weeks sooner than if sown in the 

 spring. 



Earthing Celery. — This is best done in three times 

 at intervals of a fortnight, and when the plants are 

 perfectly dry. The main crop should soon be ready 

 for the first earthing ; all small leaves and shoots 

 should first be pulled away, and the tops drawn 

 lightly together with a piece of matting just under 

 the green leaves ; this must not be tied low enough 

 or in any position that will cripple the growth of the 

 voung heart of the plant, as it should remain on 

 until after the second earthing. If worms and slugs 

 are likely to be troublesome a good dressing of lime 

 should be given before any soil is placed around the 

 stems. If any more water or liquid manure is likely 

 to be required it should be given a day or two before 

 commencing to earth. If any heads are required for 

 show it is well to wrap them round with brown paper 

 before any soil is heaped against them. As a further 

 preventive against discoloration by insects, &c, care 

 must be used not to earth too deeply the first time ; 

 the young leaves should be able to continue their 

 growth freely, the soil should be broken up small 

 with the spade and pressed around the stems, the 

 great point to aim at in order to have it well blanched 

 and of good flavour being to exclude the air from 

 the stems as much as possible, and this applies more 

 especially to the later earthings. W. U. Divers, Ketton 

 Hall, Stamford. 



Trade Notices. 



Messrs. W. & .1. Brown, nurserymen. StC, 

 Stamford, have purchased Mr. J. House's Eastgate 

 Nursery, Peterborough, for £2000. 



Mr. Robertson Munro, of the Abercorn 



Nurseries. Edinburgh, has taken into partnership 

 Mr. R. B. Ferguson, late manager to the Lawson 

 Seed and Nursery Company, and the business will 

 now be carried onunder the style and title of Munro 

 & Ferguson. 



