1888.J 



TEE GARDENEBS' CHRONICLE. 



213 



nensis, have been flowering for some weeks in tlie 

 Begonia-house at Kew. The latter is much the 

 better plant, as the flowers are twenty to thirty in an 

 umbel, on an erect scape over a foot long ; each 

 flower is 2£ inches across, in shape like a Eucharis, 

 differingchiefly in having an irregular jagged staminal 

 cup. The flowers are pure white and lasting. E' 

 Cunninghami is smaller in all its parts, but still a 

 pretty stove bulb. There are about a dozen flowers 

 on an erect scape a foot long, each flower being 

 1 inch across, and pure white. Both species require 

 warm greenhouse treatment, and a rest on a dry 

 shelf when the leaves wither ; they should be planted 

 in a mixture of loam and leaf-mould with sand ami 

 a sprinkling of crushed bones. They like plenty of 

 water whilst growing. If". W. 



Plants and Their Culture. 



Crassclas. — These fine old-fashioned plants are 

 deserving of more extended culture than falls to 

 their lot at the present day. It is true they are not 

 well adapted for cutting from, yet well-flowered 

 specimens are always conspicuous and useful decor- 

 ative subjects for the greenhouse or conservatory, 

 and for this purpose the old Crassula (Kalosanthes) 

 coccinea, of which there are several varieties, is one 

 of the best. These plants may either be grown as 

 single specimens, or several may be grouped together 

 in a pot ; but whichever plan be pursued — and with 

 the exception that it takes much longer to form a 

 large specimen from a single cutting than when seve- 

 ral are grown together — there is otherwise practically 

 no difference in their management. In either case, 

 plants whose flowering is past should have all the 

 flowered shoots cut back to a point as far back as it 

 is likely that fresh growth would again develope ; 

 they may then be stood out-of-doors, or in a light 

 airv house, until such time as the cut-back shoots 

 have pushed out fresh growths, when repotting 

 should be done, previously carefully removing all 

 loose soil, putting them for the time being in perhaps 

 smaller size pots, making the soil quite firm and 

 the plants steady, as if they are allowed to sway 

 about in the pots they will not make satisfactory 

 progress. But if they merely require a shift, do 

 this, always affording the plants good drainage. 

 These plants are, however, much better under- 

 than over-potted; indeed, large specimens may 

 be kept for years in perfect health by simply 

 removing the inert surface soil, and applying 

 a sprinkling of some mild prepared fertiliser, then 

 refilling the pot with the usual potting compost, 

 which should consist of light fibrous loam, a small 

 quantity of leaf-mould with a sufficiency of coarse 

 silver-sand, or pounded brick rubbish, to keep the 

 soil porous. As it is desirable that a few fresh plants 

 should be added annually to the stock, the present is 

 the best time to put in cutings ; select the points of 

 sturdy shoots, about 6 inches long, trim off the 

 bottom leaves, and cut evenly the base of the cuttings, 

 placing about five of them in each pot, using large 

 60's or 48's filled with the compost recommended, 

 with an additional pinch of sand round the cuttings. 

 Stand them in a light airy position, and do not water 

 them much until they are well rooted. "Watering 

 must at all times be rather under than overdone. If 

 the roots are kept constantly soaked they have a 

 tendency to decay; give water when it is required, 

 and allow the soil to get rather drier than most 

 plants before wa^er is again applied. After the 

 cuttings are rooted, if single specimens are desired, 

 shift on and pinch out the points of the shoots until 

 the required number of leads is obtained. Under this 

 treatment it will be the second year before they 

 flower ; but if the potful is potted on, they form 

 good decorative stuff the first year. A few treated 

 in each way is usually the more serviceable plan. In 

 the case of some of the smaller-growing species how- 

 ever, massing the plants is preferable; indeed, in 

 such species as C. jasminea, or lactea and its 

 variegated variety, this is the method invariably ad- 

 opted by me. Jasminea is an exceedingly-neat white- 

 flowered species rarely growing more than 9 inches 

 in height, and as brought to market by trade growers 

 is a capital decorative plant. C. lactea has a lax 

 trailing habit, and looks well when allowed to hang 

 gracefully over the sides of the pots. C. Bolusii and 

 C. Cooperii are two neat trailing or carpeting species, 

 with very slender stems and prettily marked leaves, 

 both are nice subjects to grow in shallow pots or 



pans for the front row of the greenhouse. C. lyco- 

 podioides may be similarly used. It has hard wiry 

 stems with the leaves so closely imbricated that it 

 much resembles a Lycopodium, such as our native 

 species, L. clavatum, hence its specific name. These 

 Crassulas winter best in a dry airy house, with a po- 

 sition near to the glass, and a temperature ranging 

 between 40° and 50°. C. Iiochea falcata is a desir- 

 able plant, but more properly belongs to the succu- 

 lent group, (see p. 150). 



Calceolaria!:. — The latest sowings of these should 

 now be made, and, as before, in pans filled with finely 

 prepared compost, which has previously been well 

 watered. Sow thinly and evenly, but do not cover 

 with soil — a piece of glass laid over, and the pan 

 plunged in moss or other moisture-holding material 

 and placed in a cool-house in such a position that the 

 snn's rays do not fall directly on it. This treatment 

 will usually be sufficient to avoid the need to give 

 any water until the seedlings are well above the soil. 

 If they appear to get dry damp the plunging material 

 or dip the pans in water, taking care that the water 

 does not rise so high as the surface of the soil. With 

 these precautions an ample and speedy braird may 

 be looked for. The plants from earlier sowings 

 should be pricked off as soon as they are large 

 enough to be handled. In this stage a somewhat 

 stronger compost than that used for the seed pans 

 should be employed, consisting of about one half 

 good loam, the other half leaf-mould and sand, vary- 

 ing the latter according to the texture of the loam. 

 Until the plants have made three or four fair-sized 

 leaves they are better grown in boxes, the roots then 

 being kept in a more equable state as regards mois- 

 ture than if potted singly in small pots. Give the 

 seedlings a very slight amount of shade, and, as soon 

 as they have taken to the new soil, plenty of air. 

 When about the size above-mentioned, they should 

 be removed from the boxes and put into large 60's and 

 48's for the winter, adding more loam to the potting 

 compost. 



Pelargoniums which have been standing out, and 

 whose shoots are now well ripened should be cut 

 down, placed erect to break anew, and if they can 

 be accommodated in a cool frame or greenhouse, 

 where they will not get too wet at the roots, it is an 

 advantage", the voung growth being then stronger. 

 F. Boss, Pendell Court. 



The Flower Garden. 



Propagating. — A beginning ought to be made 

 witli the majority of soft-wooded summer bedding 

 plants, i.e., where cuttings are plentiful and providing 

 they can be taken from the plants without spoiling 

 the appearance of the beds. In some districts the 

 growth of certain species of tender plants has been 

 very slow this season, and it is more than probable 

 that if the full number of cuttings required were cut 

 off now the plants from which they were taken 

 would be crippled and disfigured for the remainder of 

 the summer. By far the better plan in .such cases 

 would be to put in fewer cuttings than usual, and 

 when the proper time arrives pot up a greater 

 number of the old plants. A suitable compost 

 in which to root most kinds of bedding plants, 

 consists of three parts loam, one of leaf-mould, 

 and one of sharp sand, the whole being passed through 

 a fine sieve before using it. Zonal Pelargoniums 

 may be put in (3-inch pots, about a dozen in each, or 

 in boxes 20 X 14 inches, and 4 inches deep. In 

 preparing the same use clean potsherds for drainage, 

 over which place a layer of moss or rough siftings of 

 fibrous loam, and fill to within half an inch of 

 the top with prepared compost, pressing it 

 down moderately firm. If boxes are made 

 use of they ought to be stood on small pots 

 or wooden trellising till the time arrives for 

 moving them indoors ; guard also against overcrowd- 

 ing, or considerable loss from damping may be 

 the result, the growths being unusually full of sap ; 

 tricolors are best put in singly in thumb-pots. Such 

 subjects as Coleus, Iresine, Koniga, Mesembryan- 

 themum, Lobelia, Troprcolum, Ageratum, Gnapha- 

 lium, and Heliotrope, will be found to root freely in 

 frames if carefully attended to in regard to moisture, 

 shading from bright sunshine and ventilation until 

 the cuttings are rooted, after which period plenty of 

 ventilation should be afforded. For propagating 

 these plants use clean 6-inch pots, and plenty of 

 drainage, new pots being soaked in water beforehand. 

 Alternanthera and Verbena may also be treated in 

 the same way with the latter ; however, I prefer to 



propagate them in shallow boxes, over which panes 

 of glass are laid till rooting has taken place. If 

 frames in which Cucumbers or Melons have been 

 grown are used for this kind of work the sides 

 and the lights ought to be thoroughly cleaned 

 inside, to rid them of red-spider and other insects, 

 at the same time a layer of sifted cinder-ashes 

 should be put at the bottom. Cuttings of Pansies 

 and Violas may also be put in on outside borders, 

 giving them rather a shady position and a sandy 

 compost. Examine those that were put in earlier, 

 pinch oft' the flowers, and fill up blanks. Almost 

 all kinds of hardy bedding-out plants may be propa- 

 gated now on beds outside ; fork over the beds and 

 rake in a liberal admixture of sifted leaf-mould and 

 sand on the surface. A second batch of Pentstemons 

 and Phlox cuttings may be put in 4-inch pots and 

 placed in a cold frame, also Rose cuttings, if more 

 are required, bearing in mind with the latter to take 

 offshoots which have produced flowers, and inserting 

 them in pots immediately they are taken from the 

 plants. For further details refer to a previous 

 Calendar. 



Seeds. — Collect seeds of all hardy plants as fast as 

 they ripen, i.e., of such as are needed. This is one of 

 those little matters in which care and judgment are 

 required or the consequences may be vexatious and 

 disappointing. It seldom happens that all the 

 seeds on an outdoor grown plant are fully ripe at one 

 time, and it will be found better to gather them at 

 intervals of two or three days rather than all at one 

 time. Care should also be taken not to collect seeds 

 before they are quite ripe and the seed-vessel bursts, 

 and with nearly all the Composite when the pappus 

 or feathery hairs are well above the flower-head. 

 Choose fine weather for this work, and name, clean, 

 and store away in a cool dry place all such as are not 

 required for immediate sowing. Seeds of many 

 hardy perennials may be sown at the present time : 

 and where the means at command will allow, sow in 

 pots or pans and give them cold frame treatment in 

 preference to sowing on borders outside. Use clean 

 4 to 6-inch pots, half fill with broken potsherds, 

 over which place a layer of moss, and fill to the rims 

 with a finely sifted compost consisting of two parts 

 loam, one part leaf-mould, and one of coarse silver- 

 sand. Many kinds of hardy annuals may now be 

 sown on outside borders for early spring flowering, 

 amongst which may be named Saponaria calabricu, 

 Candytuft, red and white ; Clarkia pulchella, C. p. 

 marginata, Collinsia bicolor, Limnanthes, Erysimum, 

 Peroffskianum, Virginian Stock, Bartonia aurea, 

 and many others. Choose a light and well drained 

 soil of a rather poor character and sow in shallow 

 drills 6 inches apart on beds 4 feet wide. They may 

 be transplanted to their flowering stations, either in 

 the autumn or spring, but if at the latter period avoid 

 sowing too thickly. J. Horsefieli, Heytesbury. 



The Hardy Fruit Garden. 



Planting Strawberries. — The present is the 

 most favourable season in which to make new plan- 

 tations, if the ground has been prepared as previously 

 advised, and the runners have filled their pots with 

 roots. Before proceeding to plant, tread the ground 

 firmly and equally all over, and be sure to make firm 

 the soil round the plants. The usual distances for 

 planting are 18 inches between the plants, and 2 feet 

 from row to row. Should the weather be dry, the 

 plants must be well watered at the roots, then 

 slightly mulched with short dung, and kept clear of 

 runners. Attend to the watering of the forced 

 plants recently set out, should they require it, and 

 pinch off the runners as soon as they appear. 



Miscellaneous. — Apple and Pear trees in the open 

 quarter had better be examined again, and have all 

 their secondary growths pinched in. The Early 

 Margaret is now ripening its fruits well, which will 

 be allowed to remain on the tree, and gathered as 

 required. Morello Cherries will generally be found 

 ready for bottling purposes, over-ripeness rendering 

 them useless for this purpose. The fruits that are 

 left after gathering for this purpose must be pre- 

 served from the attacks of wasps and flies. It is a 

 good plan to set traps composed of bottles partly 

 filled with sour beer and sugar, which should be 

 hung on the walls adjacent to the house, but the 

 surest method for wasps is to find their nests and 

 destroy them. The early varieties of Plums now 

 ripening will require to be looked over daily, 

 gathering the ripest fruits. A. Ward, Stoke Edith 

 Park: 



