412 



TEE GAB DE NEBS' CEBONICLE. 



[Ootobeb 13, 1888. 



Take a piece of board larger than the inside of a 

 •standard frame, and take another piece which will 

 just go in and out of a standard frame easily. The 

 latter ought to be about three-quarters of an inch 

 thick. Glue these two pieces of wood together, one 

 lying on the other. Then take a saw and cut as 

 imany squares as you can, slightly over 1 inch square, 

 in the top piece of wood. Make the saw-cuts quite 

 through the wood, and just to touch the second 

 piece. Then take a jack-plane, set coarse, and 

 get another piece of wood, any size, but 1^ inch 

 thick, and plane off a lot of shavings. These will 

 ,-curl up, of course. Put them in water, and then lay 



are filled the sections can be taken out of the frame 

 in a mass, and can easily be separated with a knife. 

 We trust we have made the matter simple, so that 

 he who runs may read. We intend trying it our- 

 selves. Of course eight of them would go to a 

 pound, but to make it pay, eight of these sections 

 ought to fetch more than a single pound. Bee. 



LILIUM NEPALENSE. 



We give below an illustration (fig. 57) — thanks to 

 the courtesy of Messrs. Low, of Clapton — of a Lily 

 exhibited by them at the meeting of the Royal Horti- 



Plants and Their Culture. 



Chrysanthemum frutescens. — If a large batch of 

 cuttings is now put in, they would make capital de- 

 corative stuff in the later spring months. Select stout 

 close-jointed shoots of about 5 inches long, and if 

 space can be afforded insert them singly in small 

 pots, filled with sandy loam ; water to settle the soil, 

 and place them where they can be kept comparatively 

 close for two to three weeks, when they will be rooted. 

 Excellent results may be had with an ordinary 

 garden frame covered at night with mats, and on the 

 approach of severe weather moving the cuttings to 



Fig. 57. — lilium nefalense : colour deep crimson, with green tips. 



them out flat to dry. This forms a lot of veneer. 

 When dry put double slips of veneer in every saw- 

 cut, after the standard frame has been laid over the 

 top piece of wood containing the saw-cuts. Then 

 take little pieces of foundation which will just fill 

 the spaces, and drop one in each square. The next 

 piece of advice given by Mr. Harmer we do not 

 agree with. He says, touch the inside of each square, 

 and the foundation, with a small brush just touched 

 with glue. We do not propose to give Englishmen 

 glue, even in homoeopathic doses, so we would advise 

 the brush being dipped in melted wax instead. 

 When dry, the frame can be lifted up ; and if this is 

 done carefully the sections will come up with it. 

 These can be put away for use, and when the happy 

 reason arrives can be hung in the hive. When they 



cultural Society on September 11 last, and which 

 excited great attention. The plant from which our 

 figure was taken was nearly 4 feet in height. The 

 segments of the flower were greenish outside, inter- 

 nally intense red-crimson, and with light greenish 

 tips. Stamens red, greenish at the base. Mr. 

 Baker, to whom our drawing was submitted, remarks 

 that the segments, as shown, are more recurved than 

 usual, which he attributes to the flower not having 

 been drawn until it had been expanded for some 

 time. [This opinion is not shared by our artist. Ed.] 

 The plant is a native of the Central Himalayas, and 

 requires greenhouse treatment. It is probable that 

 some considerable variation exists, as the figure in 

 Elwes' Monograph, and that given in our columns 

 July 17, 1S80, do not agree well with the one now 

 figured. 



quarters safe from frost. Low pits or houses with 

 the means of keeping a minimum temperature of 45° 

 are good places to winter them, but a shelf near 

 the glass in a greenhouse will also do. The object 

 to be aimed at is to prevent them from getting drawn 

 — which they would very readily do — if far from the 

 glass or with deficient light. To induce a dwarf, 

 stubby habit, they should be pinched back several 

 times during growth, so that when they receive their 

 final potting further stopping would be unnecessary. 

 In potting, use a rich loamy compost, and pot 

 firmly. About the close of the year they will be 

 nice stuff, ready to pot on into 48's and 32's. If it 

 be desired to hasten a few of them, a temperature of 

 55° to 60° will bring them on ; care must, however, 

 be taken not to give warmth greater than that, or 

 they will become drawn and useless. Give plenty of 



