December 1, 1888.] 



THE GARDENEBS' CHBONICLE. 



635 



have to depend for the bulk of this class of timber— in 

 other words, for our supply of Elm. On all soils suited 

 to it, in and around grass fields, the growth of the 

 Elm should be encouraged. There may, perhaps, be 

 some objection to such trees, as the Ash and the 

 Oak being largely grown upon grass lands, as the 

 pasturage underneath is not improved by their pre- 

 sence. Fortunately there is no necessity for their being 

 largely cultivated in these positions, as both of them 

 produce clearer timber when grown collectively in 

 woods and coppices. The Elm, however, is pecu- 

 liarly the field and hedgerow tree, as it springs 

 naturally from the soil ; produces the most useful 

 timber when partially or entirely isolated, and its 

 leaves act as a manure to the grass under- 

 neath it. 



How to Improve Hedgerows. — It can no doubt be 

 said with truth that there is a great deal of Elm 

 standing in our English fields and hedgerows 

 which is neither good nor useful, but, whilst conced- 

 ing this, I must point out that it is largely due 

 to preventible causes. It arises from neglect on 

 the one hand, and ignorant manipulation on 

 the other. It cannot be expected that, in the 

 case of a tree to a very large extent naturally 

 reproducing itself by means of suckers, that 

 no attention whatever will be necessary to 

 preserve and direct, when small, the growth of 

 the most promising young trees, and to re- 

 move the weaker and unnecessary ones, which, 

 if left in existence, would only overcrowd and 

 hamper the progress of what would, in due 

 course, become good timber trees. The expe- 

 rience needful to make this selection properly 

 is not difficult to gain by careful observation. 

 Not unfrequently two or more large and thriving 

 trees may be found upon a space which may 

 almost be reckoned by inches. The great thing 

 to be regarded when trees are starting into 

 growth at close quarters like this is that each 

 is equally vigorous, and has a fair chance of 

 keeping pace with its neighbour. When trees are 

 growing thus in close proximity, and it becomes 

 clear that one or more is losing ground and is 

 becoming dwarfed and stunted, the sooner it is 

 removed the better. Where many years have been 

 allowed to pass without attention to this important 

 matter, much may be done even now to remedy 

 the neglect. It cannot, however, be so easy or so 

 satisfactory as a periodical inspection when the 

 trees are young. By ignorant manipulation or 

 interference I mean the plan of lopping of which 

 I have spoken, and also the nailing, both very 

 reprehensible practices. 



In closing I would remark, that even when a slight 

 loss occurs in crop, before removing a tree its 

 prospective value should be weighed against any 

 damage it may be, or supposed to be, doing. The 

 consideration, too, of what our English landscape 

 would be without its fairest ornament has its prac- 

 tical as well as sentimental side. D.J. I'eo, Luneham. 

 Wilts. 



Plants and Their Culture. 



Epacrises. — To prolong the season of these useful 

 plants, a portion of the stock may be hastened by 

 giving it a few degrees more heat, selecting those with 

 the flower-buds well advanced ; strong forcing should 

 however not be practised, or the flowers would lose 

 in colour and substance, and much of their lasting 

 properties when cut. A temperature of about 55° 

 will be sufficient, by which, with a good light, airy 

 position, flowers of fine quality may be produced. 

 With an increase of temperature more water will be 

 required, and it may occasionally be tinged with weak 

 liquid manure, but the Epacris dislikes strong doses of 

 manure as well as any superabundance of water at the 

 root, the latter evil showing itself by falling leaves 

 and poor flowers. At present the main stock of plants 

 should be in a night temperature of not less than 

 45° ; and great care should be exercised in watering 

 the plants. They do best when the soil is kept 

 uniformly moist, without being wet ; and this condi- 

 tion of the soil it is not difficult to maintain if the 

 drainage be good, and the soil firm, yet elastic. 



Epiphyllums. — Those which are now resting after 

 finishing their growth may, if required, be moved 

 into warmer quarters, where with little further 

 attention their flowers will soon expand. 

 A shelf near the glass in a warm pit is the best 

 position to bring them on, and if it be moderately 

 moist, the plants will require but little water at 



the root, and the flowers will open without any 

 fresh growth being made — which is very desirable. 

 As soon as the flowers are well expanded, remove 

 the plants to a cooler and airier atmosphere. Small 

 well-flowered pieces may be cut from the plants and 

 used as miniature plants for table or other decora- 

 tions. Such pieces need not be sacrificed, as after 

 the flowers have faded they can be used to increase 

 the stock of plants, either to be grown on their own 

 roots or grafted on the Pereskia aculeata or other 

 stock. The main batch of plants will be safe if kept 

 rather dry at a temperature of 45° — 50° for the 

 present. 



Stcphanvtis floribunda. — The present is a good 

 season to thin out and cut away all weak and 

 superfluous growths, cleaning and putting in order 

 the plants for the next season. Where Stephanotis 

 is grown as a plant in a pot, it sometimes does 

 not flower satisfactorily. Of course this may 

 arise from various causes, and one of the most 

 frequent is that of not giving the plants a proper 

 period of rest, but by keeping them in a warm 

 moist house, they are more or less kept in a 

 growing condition, with the result of much weak 

 growth. The plants do not then flower so freely, 

 and, indeed, I have found the plant flowers best 

 when kept rather dry in winter, and in a tempera- 

 ture of 50° to 55°. This is more easily done with 

 pot plants than with those planted out in a stove. 



Stocks. — East Lothian Stocks when grown for 

 winter flowering are scarcely excelled by any other 

 plants. Those which were sown late and grown 

 in pots for this purpose should be potted on as they 

 require it, using sound loam with a little leaf-mould 

 and sand. The best place to grow the plants is a 

 cool frame with a rather steep-pitched roof, the pots 

 to be plunged in cinders. Here, with attention to 

 ventilation, the plants may stand during the winter, 

 and may be drawn upon as occasion requires. For 

 indoor work the white variety is generally preferred, 

 and a scarlet form is also very good. F. Boss, 

 Bletchingley. 



Antwerp. The two best autumnal varieties are 

 October Red and Belle de Fontenay. The first- 

 named bears medium-sized fruits, very rich in 

 flavour, and on that account of use in the dessert. 

 The fruit of the last-named is very large, of a dark 

 colour, and with some acidity, and consequently of 

 much culinary value where Currants are kept till 

 late. 



A few red and white Currants should if possible be 

 planted on a northern aspect, and for this purpose 

 the White Dutch and Raby Castle Red are the two 

 best varieties to plant. 



Plaiiliny. — This should be pushed on without loss 

 of time and while the mild weather lasts. Examine 

 the roots of bought-iu plants, and trim oft' the ends 

 of all those that are broken or much bruised, and 

 give them a mud bath if found to be dry. Avoid 

 planting too deeply, but plant as near to the surface 

 as is consistent with safety, In planting, spread the 

 roots out at various depths, work some small 

 quantity of fresh soil amongst them, giving the bush 

 a gentle shake to and fro as the work proceeds, after- 

 wards treading the soil firmly and evenly. A mulch 

 of half-decayed manure may then be spread over the 

 ground. All young stuff should have some tempo- 

 rary support to which the stem or canes may be 

 loosely fixed to prevent wind-waving, the final 

 tying being left till the spring months. Trees 

 on walls should have the largest branches likewise 

 loosely fastened to the same. A. Ward, Stoke 

 Edith Park. 



The Hardy Fruit Garden. 



Bcsh Fruits. — When large quantities of fruits of 

 Currants, Gooseberries, and Raspberries are re- 

 quired by the household, it is of importance that new 

 plantations be made from time to time ; therefore, 

 when a break of bushes or canes begins to show signs 

 of becoming worn out, a corresponding area should 

 be planted with young bushes of stools without loss 

 of time, and when these come into bearing the old 

 plantation may be grubbed up. In small gardens 

 the bush fruits are best when planted in quarters by 

 themselves, as they can then be protected from the 

 birds more economically than when distributed 

 about the garden. 



Currants and Gooseberries succeed in almost 

 any kind of soil, but the Black Currant prefers one 

 that is rather retentive, and a position that is shady 

 and cool. 



For Raspberries the ground should be heavily 

 manured and trenched previous to planting ; but the 

 Bpade should not be allowed to be used amongst the 

 plants afterwards for fear of destroying the roots 

 near the surface. The autumn-bearing varieties are 

 best planted so that they can be trained to a trellis, 

 which may consist of four horizontal wires made 

 secure at each end to iron or oaken posts. The 

 height of the post needs not to exceed 5 feet. 



The distances at which Gooseberry and Currant 

 bushes may be planted are 5 feet between the bushes, 

 and 6 feet between the rows ; and Raspberries at .3 

 feet from stool to stool, and 5 feet between the rows. 

 The best varieties for planting, taking Gooseberries 

 first, are: — 



Red varieties. — Whinham's Industry. Ironmonger, 

 Nutmeg, Talfourd, Speedwell, Rough Red, Scotch, 

 Warrington, Champagne, Slaughterman, Crown Bob, 

 and Rifleman. 



White, yellow, and green varieties. — Whitesmith, 

 Transparent, Green Walnut, Pitmaston Green Gage, 

 Champagne, Catherine. Criterion, Leader, Rum- 

 bullion, Ringer, and Yellow Ball. 



Of Currants, Raby Castle, Cherry, Dutch, and 

 Gloire de Versailles are the best reds ; and the best 

 whites are Transparent and Dutch. The best black 

 varieties are Naples, Lee's Prolific, and Carter's 

 Champion. 



Of Raspberries, Baumforth's Seedling, Lord Bea- 

 consfield, Carter's Prolific, Fillbasket, and Fastolf 

 are the best red varieties ; and the best vellow is the 



Fruits Under Glass. 



The Pine-apple. — Fruiters should be kept at a 

 night temperature of 65° to 70° according to the 

 weather — if cold and windy let the lower figure be 

 taken. Where any difficulty is experienced in main- 

 taining the requisite temperature, a covering of 

 Frigi Domo, or mats, should be used ; the former is 

 the handiest, and best Allow a day temperature of 

 10° higher, and 5° more with sun-heat. Keep the 

 bottom-heat steadily at 90° ; examine the plants once 

 a week, and water only such as are found to be dry. 

 When the fruit is half coloured give no more water 

 to the plant until the fruit is cut. Let the atmo- 

 spheric moisture be wholly supplied by sprinkling 

 the paths and surface of the beds, the vapour pans 

 being at this season entirely dispensed with. 



Early Fruiters. — A selection should be made from 

 those plants which have been at rest for the past 

 few weeks, and the selected plants plunged in the 

 compartment prepared for their reception about the 

 end of the month. In choosing thoie which are 

 most likely to start without making any growth, it 

 will be found that those which have the shortest 

 leaves in the centre, and in which the latter is spread 

 open, and which are thickest at the collars, will start 

 into fruit the more certainly. A few of the short 

 leaves may be removed from the collar, and the sur- 

 face-soil pricked over with a sharp-pointed stick and 

 removed down to the roots. Have in readiness 

 some fibry loam to which a fair proportion of 

 Thomson's manure has been added, and squeeze 

 this firmly round the collars and over the surface 

 of the ball, leaving about \h inch in depth for water. 

 The bottom-heat for these plants may not exceed 

 90°, nor be less than 85°, when the plants are plunged 

 in the hotbed, a good soaking of water should be 

 afforded them at a temperature of 90°, and unless 

 the weather be such as to entail hard firing no 

 more need be given until the plants are in flower. 

 Do not syringe the plants overhead, but maintain a 

 nice moist state of the air by sprinkling the paths and 

 other surfaces. Let the night temperature be 65° 

 or 70°, according to the state of the weather, 80° by 

 day with 5° increase with sun-heat, when air should 

 be admitted. Shut up about 1 p.m.. and afterwards 

 allow the temperature to run up to 95°. The fruiters 

 to be started about the middle of the month of 

 February should at present be kept at rest, and air 

 admitted to them at all suitable times. For a night 

 temperature 55° to 60° ; by day 65° to 70° with sun- 

 heat, and ventilation in fine weather. 



Succession Stock should be examined once a week, 

 to see that no plant suffers from an over-dry state of 

 the soil. The watering must be done with care, 

 using clear water. The night temperature should be 

 kept at from 55° to 60°. Suckers recently shifted 

 which are still growing, must be very carefully tended 

 and all growth, as far as circumstances will permit, 

 should be discouraged ; bottom-heat of 85°, and a 

 night temperature of 60° to 65° will be sufficient 

 for them. W. M. Baillie, Luton Hoa. 



