Decembeb 8, 1888.] 



THE GARDENEBS' GHBONICLE. 



667 



may sometimes be obtained, but the general practice 

 is to cut up the creeping rootstock into small pieces 

 with one leaf or more attached. These pieces should 

 then be either potted singly into pots slightly 

 larger than the pieces, then sinking the pots in pluDg- 

 ing material over a gentle bottom-heat, or the pieces 

 may be planted thickly in the plunging material, if 

 this be leaf-soil, and potted up afterwards ; but by 

 potting at once they become sooner established. A 

 moderately moist atmosphere at about 60°, will 

 accelerate rooting, but they may also be successfully 

 grown on in an ordinary greenhouse, taking care, 

 however, not to break them up into very small 

 pieces, as latent buds do not start so readily under 

 cool treatment as under warm. Moreover, in warmth, 

 finer and larger leaves are developed, especially in 

 the case of the variegated variety, which is by far 

 the more prized. They delight in a rich loamy com- 

 post, well-drained pots, and a good exposure to light, 

 with copious syringings. While the plants are 

 small and not yet established the leaves should be 

 held upright with sticks to prevent the pieces being 

 moved. 



Tuberoses. — The fragrant blossoms of the Tuberose 

 are usually much appreciated, and they are alike 

 useful for bouquets of all kinds, button-holes, and 

 sprays. To keep up a steady supply nearly all that 

 is necessary is to put in, or rather start successional 

 lots of bulbs at intervals. There is now, owing to 

 the early arrival of African bulbs, not much difficulty 

 in maintaining an unbroken supply, as by the time 

 the last of the Americans are out of bloom 

 Africans are ready to take their places. Sometimes 

 disappointment is experienced when roots miss to 

 flower, and in some cases this arises from the bulbs 

 not being properly ripened ; but I have known cases 

 where the failure was attributable to mismanage- 

 ment. A common cause of loss to flower is by 

 attempting to force them into flower before 

 the bulbs have had time to make roots ; 

 and when this happens, even if flowers are 

 produced, they are not of the fine quality obtained 

 from well-routed plants, therefore see that root- 

 growth is well in advance of the top. In potting, a 

 convenient plan is to place three bulbs in a 32-pot ; 

 this size being sufficiently large to grow them well, and 

 as they grow tall, and require staking, one stick in- 

 serted in the centre of the pot is sufficient for the 

 three flower-stems. If grown singly, pots of a size 

 smaller may be used. A strong, rich, loamy soil 

 suits them, and after being potted, plunge them in a 

 mild bottom-heat, but avoid watering much until 

 the roots appear freely round the ball ; indeed, if the 

 soil be properly moist at the time of potting watering 

 will rarely be needed until the bulbs are well rooted, 

 after which they may be pushed on in a moist stove. 

 By potting up a quantity at one time, a long succes- 

 sion of bloom can be maintained by plunging them 

 where only an intermediate temperature, or under 

 G0°, is kept, there they will come on slowly, and may 

 be hastened by introducing them as required into 

 the forciug-house. There are several varieties, and 

 although all are good, the Pearl, on account of its 

 dwarfer habit, is often preferred to any other. After 

 flowering, if they are to be kept for another year, 

 plenty of heat, light, and water, until their leaves 

 begin to show signs of ripening off, when drier and 

 airier conditions should be maintained. But im- 

 ported bulbs are now so cheap that it is scarcely 

 worth while to keep old ones. 



Fuchsias. — Late struck cuttings should be potted 

 on as they require it, for if allowed to get into 

 a stunted condition, it is difficult to start them 

 freely afterwards. A loamy compost, with a good pro- 

 portion of leaf-mould, or decomposed manure, and 

 rough sand to make it porous, will grow Fuchsias 

 well. After potting they are much assisted by a few 

 degrees more warmth for a fortnight, with a moist 

 atmosphere, as this enables the root to lay hold of 

 the new soil readily; but as soon as they begin to 

 grow, the less fire-heat there is employed the better, 

 and where greenhouse pits are found, no better posi- 

 tion need be desired for them. Being placed on 

 shelves near the glass in a greenhouse answers well, 

 and while the plants are in pots not exceeding small 

 60's, it is a convenient practice to place them in 

 shallow boxes before standing them on the shelves. 

 The pots are then not so liable to be knocked off the 

 shelf, nor are the plants so much trouble to keep 

 moist. F. Ross, Blctehingley, 



The Flower Garden. 



General Work.— See that all is neat and orderly 

 in the flower garden and pleasure grounds, not 

 neglecting the more distant parts of the grounds. 

 Clumps and shrubberies should receive timely atten- 

 tion, staking and tying any branches that may have 

 become misplaced by wind, shortening back strag- 

 gling shoots, but not carrying out a general pruning 

 of evergreens or deciduous shrubs for the present, 

 that operation being better deferred to a later season. 

 Rake and clean the ground under shrubs, and lightly 

 point over the surface with a fork. The present time 

 is opportune for repairing drives and walks, and any 

 defective drains should be put in order, and catch- 

 pits cleaned out. Gravel walks which have long been 

 laid should be turned, and re-surfaced with a layer of 

 fresh gravel, and the latter, if of a rough character, 

 should be passed through a half-inch screen or sieve 

 before using. The walks should be 2 or 3 inches 

 higher in the centre than at the sides, and must be 

 well rolled at frequent intervals. In the case of 

 shrubs, border plants, hardy perennials, and bulbs of 

 doubtful hardiness, it will be advisable to have 

 means at hand for protecting such, for notwithstand- 

 ing the mildness of the season, a change to severe 

 weather may occur without much premonitory 

 warning. As a material for the purpose, Spruce Fir 

 branches, when used sparingly, are very good. For 

 Hyacinths, Tulips, and similar subjects I do not 

 know of anything to equal coarsely-sifted leaf- 

 mould, coal-ashes, or cocoa-nut fibre refuse, a 2 or 

 3-inch layer of which will ward off many degrees of 

 frost. This may also be used for protecting the 

 crowns of tender species of herbaceous plants. Put 

 handlights over Ilelleboros niger if clear and well- 

 developed flowers are required for decorative pur- 

 poses, not forgetting, however, to afford ample venti- 

 lation by tilting up the tops of the lights in the day- 

 time. 



Frame Ground. — Frames containing half-hardy 

 perennial as well as young stock should be ventilated 

 daily, taking off the lights entirely in the day time 

 in fine weather ; keep the plants free from decaying 

 leaves, and the surface soil from moss, paying due 

 attention to the covering up of the frames at nights. 

 ./ Hbrsefield, Heyte&bury, 



Publications Received.— Planting and Agri- 

 cultural Industries of Ceylon, by J. Ferguson (Lon- 

 don : J. Haddon & Co.). — The Garden Annual (37, 

 Southampton Street, Strand). 



Fruits Under Glass. 



Vines. — If the buds on the early Vines are on 

 the move the temperature may be advanced to 55° 

 on cold nights, and to 60° on mild ones; and the 

 latter figure should not be exceeded until such time 

 as the Vines approach the flowering stage. When- 

 ever the leaves begin to unfold discontinue syringing 

 the Vines, and let the atmospheric moisture be 

 wholly supplied by sprinkling the paths and borders, 

 and by turning over a portion of the fermenting mate- 

 rial every morning. Guard against spilling water 

 on the hot pipes, this proceeding raising a cloud of 

 steam, which is highly prejudicial to the young 

 foliage of the Vine. 



Pot Tines which were recommended to be started 

 on a bed of fermenting leaves will require Blight 

 additions to be made from time to time to the 

 materials of the bed, so that the heat may be main- 

 tained. This should not, however, exceed 85°. 

 When the leaves unfold discontinue syringing, as in 

 the case of planted out Vines, and supply the neces- 

 sary humidity as above advised. Tie the rods to their 

 supports in time, and where two shoots spring from 

 one joint rub oft' the weaker; stop the shoots at the 

 sreond or third leaf beyond the bunch, and remove 

 all the bunches excepting the best six as soon as 

 their size can be distinguished. When the foliage 

 is fairly developed assistance with weak manure- 

 water may safely be afforded the plants, and as soon 

 as the roots are'discernible through the surface-soil 

 an inch in depth of rich loam, horse droppings, bone- 

 meal, or Thomson's manure, should be placed over 

 them, and when this has got washed in by watering 

 another similar dressing may be given, and repeated 

 when it should appear needful. If Vines which are 

 confined in a 12-inch pot suffer from scarcity of 

 water, or insufficient root food, the produce will not 

 be worth much. Advance the temperature to (50° 

 when the buds have burst, and when the leaves are 

 fully developed raise the night temperature to 65° — 

 10° higher by day if cloudy, and 5° higher than that 

 with sunheat. Vines started this month require a 

 treatment precisely similar to those started last month. 



Grapes hanging on any Vines will require to be fre- 

 quently examined, and all decaying and mouldy 

 berries cut out, as these soon communicate decay to 

 the sound ones ; the night temperature in such houses 

 may be kept at about 45° — not higher, and when the 

 weather permits of it being done plentiful ventilation 

 should be afforded, but in wet and foggy weather the 

 ventilors must be kept shut. Look over the bunches 

 in the Grape-room once a week, and keep up a steady 

 temperature of 45°. 



Prune and cleanse late vineries, removing the top- 

 dressing of soil down to the roots, and re-surface with 

 sound loam, lime rubbish broken small, and Thom- 

 son's Vine manure, afterwards giving a copious 

 watering with tepid water. Secure the requisite 

 quantity of shoots for making Vine eyes, and lay 

 them in soil fur the present. The shoots selected 

 should be of medium strength, and well ripened. 

 IV. M. Baillie, Luton Hoo. 



The Hardy Fruit Garden. 



Pruning. — The leaves now being off the trees, 

 pruning may be commenced, and where a large 

 number of fruit trees is grown advantage should be 

 taken of the open weather to push on with it. Apple, 

 Pear, and Plum trees in the open quarters should first 

 receive attention, the primings and leaves raked up, 

 and the borders made tidy. If these trees received 

 proper attention during the summer, but little will re- 

 main to be done beyond shortening back and spurring- 

 in any young growths that were then overlooked ; 

 but where the pruning was not done at that season 

 it must be seen to now. All trees which have filled 

 their allotted space should have the young wood 

 spurred-in to two or four buds, according to the 

 variety. For medium and weakly growers spur-in to 

 two buds, and the stronger growers to four buds. It 

 frequently happens that when the trees have become 

 fully established they are found to be crowded with 

 branches, and in consequence sunlight is excluded 

 from the inner parts of the tree, and the quality of 

 the crop much impaired. In such a case some of 

 the worst placed and oldest branches should be sawn 

 clean out, taking care to pare the surface of the 

 wounds with a knife or chisel. Attend to the 

 training of young growing trees, thinning and regu- 

 lating the branches. For the purpose of training, 

 stakes about 3 feet in length should be provided, 

 and these to the number of six or seven should be 

 driven in the ground at regular intervals round the 

 tree, and by means of strong twine the branches can 

 then be placed in any desired position. After one 

 or two years the ties can be removed, as the 

 branches will then have become set in the wished- 

 for form. If it is desired to propagate any particular 

 variety the scions should be selected and cut off 

 before" the tree is pruned, labelled and laid in a shady 

 place. 



Pears and Plums on walls should next be taken in 

 hand and witli these — young trees excepted — the 

 principal part of the pruning will consist of merely 

 spurring- in the young wood to two or three buds, and 

 leaving a sufficient number of young shoots to fill up 

 gaps caused by loss of brandies. Unless well looked 

 after, old trees are in course of time apt to become 

 crowded with spurs, and as a natural consequence 

 the produce is inferior. These spurs should be 

 reduced in number and length ; and when the 

 work is finished they should stand at 4 or 5 

 inches apart on the branches. With young trees 

 the wood that has been laid in during the summer 

 will require to be regulated and thinned, bearing in 

 mind that only sufficient should be retained for 

 forming the main branches, the number depending 

 on the style of training adopted. When a certain 

 number of the trees have been pruned, the nailing of 

 such should be began. Examine old shreds and make 

 good deficiencies ; but in nailing use no more shreds 

 than are necessary to make the trees secure, and see 

 that they are not fastened too tightly round the 

 branches. For fastening the main branches tarred 

 twine is preferable to wide shreds. 



The Fruit-room. — Remove all specked and decay- 

 ing fruit, and as regards Pears do not trouble about 

 filling up the gaps caused by the removal of decayed 

 fruit, for the less they are handled and moved about 

 the better. Allow a free circulation of air to pass 

 through the room by keeping the ventilators open 

 on all favourable occasions. Endeavour to use up 

 all the earlier varieties of Apples and Pears for pre- 

 sent consumption, reserving the late keeping varieties 

 for future use. A. Ward, Stoke Edith Park. 



