DacEMBEn 15, 1888.] 



THE GABDENEBS' CHRONICLE. 



690 



is due more to the cuttings being exposed to too much 

 heat than to damping, in the ordinary sense of the 

 term. That which I have found to answer best is a 

 propagating case or frame, stood on some moisture- 

 holding material, such as sand, sawdust, or cocoa- 

 nut fibre refuse, in a position where the greatest 

 amount of light may be had without the sun's rays 

 falling directly on it. By so doing the evil of shading 

 is altogether avoided ; more air may be given, and 

 watering is greatly lessened. A pit facing north, 

 and a temperature of 60° to 65°, answers very well. 

 If bottom-heat be employed it should be of a very 

 gentle kind, not much exceeding the temperature of 

 the house. But excellent results may be obtained 

 by merely uBing a hand-light or bell-glass to cover 

 the cuttings, not forgetting to arrange for a moderate 

 circulation of air about the cuttings. I have always 

 found it best to insert the cuttings singly in small 

 pots (thumbs) filled with a sandy compost, and it is a 

 good practice to place a pinch of sharp sand at the base, 

 and around the cutting. As to the size of the cuttings, 

 that will depend on the variety — free-rooting sort3 

 like A. reticulata, filicifolia, Guilfoylei, and lepto- 

 phlla, may be taken of large size, remembering that 1 to 

 2 inches of stem above the soil is quite enough ; 

 if, however, cuttings are scarce, the stem may be cut 

 into lengths of two or three joints, which, if they 

 have leaves, will root as readily as tops ; those 

 without leaves should be planted thickly together 

 in shallow pans; and this is also the method to 

 pursue with root cuttings, but stems are to be pre- 

 ferred. In the case of A. Veitchii elegantissima 

 and A. V. gracillima grafting is the readiest mode of 

 propagation. Take rooted cuttings of A. reticulata, 

 which makes the best stock, although Guilfoylei is 

 often used ; cut them over au inch above the surface 

 of the soil, and graft by any method that is pre- 

 ferred. That which gives the least trouble is cleft- 

 grafting, which is done by splitting the stem with a 

 thin-bladed knife down the centre to the surface 

 of the soil ; cut the scion like a wedge, and insert it 

 in the cleft, being careful that the bark (cambium) 

 of both stock and scion exactly coincide, at least at 

 one side ; tie with a piece of bast, and stand the 

 grafted stocks where water cannot touch them. 

 A little grafting wax is useful for them, but 

 it is not absolutely necessary. A slightly drier 

 frame than that recommended for cut tings would suit, 

 but care should be taken that they do not damp off. 

 In all cases tie up the leaves, otherwise they are apt 

 to get broken. If well watered when put in, gentle 

 dewings should, with judicious airing, suffice until the 

 cuttings or grafts are well established. If A. Veitchii 

 is grown in a greenhouse with a minimum trm- 

 peratnre of 45°, it will stand much more hard usage, 

 as well as remain of a suitable size for a longer period 

 than when the plant is grown in a stove. A 

 leptophylla, A. ternata, Pseudopanax crassifolia, and 

 Panax Victoria:, are all useful, and the last-named 

 is a beautiful variegated plant, which likes an inter- 

 mediate temperature. Panax laciniatum, P. pluma- 

 tum, and EUeodeudron Chabrieri, are desirable 

 species and varieties, and they are easily increased 

 from cuttings. For furnishing cold or exposed 

 positions, Aralia japonica is very useful, for, 

 being nearly hardy, it can be placed where other 

 plants would succumb. There is also a variegated 

 form of it, but it is reputed tender. Both are easily 

 raised from cuttings, but seeds of the green ones are 

 sometimes obtainable. The Rice - paper plant, 

 Aralia papyrifera, is a bold, effective plant, but it is a 

 coarse grower, with leaves darker green on the upper 

 surface, and whitish underneath. Tall specimens 

 with good heads of foliage make fine conservatory 

 plants. There are several half-hardy species well 

 worth growing. F. Ross, Pendell Court, Blctchingley. 



The Hardy Fruit Garden. 



Maxurino. — A general survey should now be 

 taken to ascertain which are those fruit trees that 

 stand in need of manure, as by so doing matters 

 will be greatly facilitated ; and then, on the first 

 frosty morning, the manure may be wheeled to the 

 different trees. Any Apple and Pear trees that are 

 in the habit of carrying heavy crops yearly must be 

 well looked after, for as the majority of these trees 

 are grown on the dwarfing stock, they are soon 

 exhausted unless well manured every year or two. 

 It can generally be seen at a glance when trees are 

 getting into a starved condition by the deterioration 

 of the crop in point of size and quality ; the 

 fruits sometimes crack, and the trees make little or 



no growth. Any trees which are in this condition 

 should have the surface-soil removed to the depth of 

 5 or 6 inches, and then apply a good coating of 

 manure equally all over the roots, after which 2 inches 

 of the soil should be returned to the top of the 

 manure, both to hold it down and to prevent birds 

 from scratching it about. All bush fruit quarters 

 are greatly improved by heavy dressings of manure, 

 and for digging-in round the roots of red and white 

 Currants and Gooseberries — well rotted farmyard 

 manure is the best. Black Currant borders should 

 have the surface-soil lightly pointed over, and then 

 a good dressing of stable-manure, applied such as has 

 been laying in the manure-yard for a few weeks, 

 while for Raspberries old hot-bed material is with- 

 out doubt the best stimulant they can have. Old- 

 established Apple trees in orchards are greatly 

 benefited by a surface-mulch of manure. This, if 

 only placed on the turf, will do a great amount of 

 good as the rains will wash the manurial properties 

 down to the roots. The finest Blenheim Orange 

 Apples grown in this neighbourhood are gathered 

 from trees mulched with farmyard manure in this 

 manner. Failing manure the turf on the surface 

 should be dug in round about the trees with beneficial 

 results. 



The top-dressing and renovating of wall tree 

 borders when required should receive attention, and 

 the soil prepared so as to be in readiness. Sound 

 loam well chopped, and the parings fron the sides of 

 roads and drives, to which may be added burnt earth, 

 and wood ashes, all well mixed together, and placed 

 in a heap for a short time before use, will form an 

 excellent compost for the purpose. A small quan- 

 tity of manure may be added for cordon trees. 



Bush Fruits. — The pruning of these should now be 

 done, but in districts where birds are troublesome, 

 it is there best deferred till the spring. With regard 

 to the pruning of Gooseberries, the purposes for 

 which the fruits are required should be taken into 

 consideration. A good general rule to follow is to 

 leave rather more wood in those trees which are 

 expected to furnish fruit for gathering in a green 

 state, and for bottling purposes, than in those trees 

 on which the fruit will be left to hang and ripen for 

 dessert. Spur-in closely all cross shoots, and those 

 not required for furnishing the tree ; and remove a 

 few of the oldest and under brandies yearly, and 

 leave a corresponding number of young growths to 

 supply their places. These remarks apply also to red 

 and white Currants, which should always be closely 

 spurred in, and the branches kept well regulated and 

 clear of each other. Black Currants do not require 

 any spurring, but a good general thinning of the 

 wood instead, removing as much of the old wood as 

 is possible. A very good plan is to thin every other 

 bush rather severely ; this will induce them to break 

 away, and make plenty of stout growths, which will 

 bear exceptionally fine fruit the year after. 



If cuttings of any of the above are required, select 

 medium-sized, straight, well-ripened shoots to the 

 required number, tie them in bundles, label them, 

 and heel them in under a north wall, until such time 

 as they can be properly made. A. Ward, Stoke Edith 

 Park. 



Fruits Under Glass. 



Peaches. — Under the genial influences of the mild 

 weather, and with the assistance of the bed of 

 fermenting leaves in the house, little or no artificial 

 heat will have been required, and the buds will have 

 made rapid progress. I find that the difficulty has 

 been to keep the temperatures at 50° at night when 

 the apparatus has been resorted to — by day 55° will 

 be quite high enough when the sun is obscured, and 

 in the intervals of sunshine 00° will not do harm. 

 Ventilation must be afforded every day, and at the top 

 of the house if possible, but more or less according to 

 the state of the weather. Maintain a genial state of 

 the atmosphere by turning a portion of the leaf bed 

 and sprinkling it occasionally with tepid water. 

 Allow the buds to get dry before darkness sets in, 

 and as the blossoms expand advance the night tem- 

 perature to 55°, and allow the flowers to get perfectly 

 dry by the middle of the day ; and pass over them a 

 Pampas-grass plume to disperse the pollen. 



Succession Houses. — The second house should be 

 got in readiness if not already done: and it may be 

 started about the end of December. Place a bed of 



fermenting material in the house, as advised for that 

 started early, and avoid frequent syringings. Let 

 the necessary pruning and dressing be attended to in 

 the later houses, and where red-spider and scale have 

 been prevalent, let the trees be syringed thoroughly 

 with protoleum and rain-water at a temperature of 

 90°. A 60-pot full of petroleum to 4 gallons of water 

 will speedily loosen the scale from the shoots : and 

 then the usual washing with a spoke-brush will 

 destroy any eggs which may have remained. When 

 using the brush keep the fruit-bearing shoot on the 

 palm of the hand, and be careful to draw the brush 

 up towards the point of the shoot. As each tree is 

 scrubbed give another syringing with the mixture. 



Figs. — The early trees, which were placed in a 

 bed of fermenting leaves about the middle of 

 November, will now be unfolding their leaves, and 

 the young Figs making progress. If the temperature 

 of the bed decline below 85° additional material 

 should be employed to raise it to, but not to exceed 

 that figure. At this stage the night temperature 

 may be 55°, and the day temperature 60° if cloudy, 

 and 65° with sun-heat. Syringe the tree with tepid- 

 water on the mornings of fine days. Air the house 

 daily when the weather is mild. Keep the roots in 

 a medium state as regards moisture ; and where 

 the trees are not potted in the autumn, give fre- 

 quent waterings with clear manure-water, and soot 

 alternately. 



Succession Houses.— The Fig trees may be put in 

 readiness in the manner previously advised, cleaning, 

 training, top-dressing as may be required. The 

 trees will then be in a thorough state of readiness 

 for the start at anv period after the New Year. 

 W. M. Baillie, Luton Hoo. 



The Kitchen Garden. 



Peas. — Seeds of these now germinating should be 

 protected as soon as they appear by means of Spruce 

 Fir boughs, about IS inches long, placed on each 

 side of the rows. When Spruce Fir cannot be 

 obtained, Box, or Laurel, or Yew, may be used 

 instead. A sharp look-out should be kept for mice, 

 which do a great deal of mischief to Peas in a short 

 time. Where cats could not be employed to reduce 

 their number, Collin & Pullinger's patent traps have 

 been employed with success. They should be kept 

 clean and baited occasionally ; one trap will often 

 catch, four or five in one night without any attention. 

 Slugs are also troublesome in mild, showery weather, 

 and it is well to put a few fresh-sifted coal-ashes on 

 each side of the rows of Peas. The above remarks 

 apply to Broad Beans also. 



Cauliflowers in handlights and frames should have 

 plenty of air at all times when the weather is mild, 

 as any encouragement of growth at this season re- 

 sults usually in buttoning in the spring. Lettuces 

 in frames should also have abundance of air in mild 

 weather, and the larger plants be kept clear of decaying 

 leaves, &c. ; these and Cauliflowers also should have 

 the surface of the soil stirred occasionally, and an 

 occasional dusting with lime if slugs prove trouble- 

 some. 



Seakale and Rhubarb. — A sufficient quantity of 

 these roots should be prepared for forcing, and the 

 earlier successions gradually brought on by keep- 

 ing up a steady temperature of 65° — 70°. Rhubarb is 

 improved in flavour if the pit or house in which it is 

 being forwarded is ventilated for a few days before 

 gathering the stalks. 



Globe Artichokes. — The stems and crowns of these 

 plants should be protected before severe frost comes, 

 by pulling away some of the older leaves and placing 

 a heap of coal ashes, dry litter, or short straw around 

 them. On the first indications of hard weather setting 

 in, a plentiful supply of Celery, Brussels Sprouts. 

 Savoys, Horse Radish, &c. should be got into the 

 sheds, so as to be ready for use ; and any roots of 

 Parsnips or Jerusalem Artichokes remaining in the 

 ground should be stored. Celery in rows outside 

 should be covered with straw or bracken ; Parsley 

 protected by frames if possible, or by straw hurdles. 

 Chicory roots should be dug up and laid in closely, 

 ready for forcing as soon as the supply of Endive is 

 exhausted, and any of the latter remaining outside 

 should be protected from severe frost. W. H. Dicers, 

 Ketton Hall, Stamford. 



