78 MOJAVE VALLEY TO MOUTH OF BLACK CANON—COTTONWOOD VALLEY. 
ascent of a prominent peak on the opposite side of the river (Mount Newberry) has given 
him a view of the whole of the Black mountain range. 
The position of the cafion through the Black mountains is nearly north. The walls of the 
entrance are plainly visible. East of the cafion the mountains present an impassable barrier 
to all progress in that direction. The only break that has been seen by which it seems possible 
to cross, in order to pursue the land explorations, is near the 35th parallel, where the gap is 
apparent, by which Captain Sitgreaves and Mr. Beale must have both descended to the 
Colorado. 
Not far west of the Black cafion, a low place in the same range designates a pass through 
which a good wagon route may be found between the portion of the river south of the mountains 
and the road to Utah. This connexion it will be important to make, if the head of navigation 
turns out to be, as Ireteba says it will, in the Black cafion. 
Apart from the volcanic upheavals, as exhibited in the ranges of mountains, Mr. Egloffstein 
thinks that he has been able to distinguish a great and general rise of the whole region 
towards the north and east along a line within fifty miles of us.* If this be correct the grade 
of the river will soon become so steep that it will be impossible to ascend further. 
Four days ago Capitan begged permission to return, and his services being no longer 
required since Ireteba has joined us, I told him he could go. He has been with the party so 
long that we really regretted parting from him. Before he left he was loaded with as many 
presents as he could carry, and was also charged with a package of letters to be taken to Fort 
Yuma. Mariano is inclined to see the issue of the exploration of the navigable portion of the 
river, and decided not to accompany Capitan back. 
ners regulate their marches so as to reach their destination at the close of day, and every 
evening at sunset we have looked anxiously towards the Pyramid mountains, with the hope of 
descrying some one crossing the summit. This evening a moving figure was discerned in the 
distance, that turned out to be the long-expected messenger with the letters. He brought 
intelligence from Lieutenant Tipton that the arrangements for the departure of the pack-train 
were progressing favorably, and that he should commence the ascent of the river from the fort 
on the 15th of this month. — 
The Mojave was dust-begrimed and weary. He has had a hard time footing it in the face of 
the ‘gale and the driving sand during the past three days, but after he had received the pay- 
ment that was allotted to him, did not appear to regret having undertaken the trip. 
An occasional lull in the blast has permitted the partial subsidence of the sand clouds, and 
afforded glimpses of a valley immediately above camp. Groves of cottonwood trees, of a 
larger growth than any seen before, indicate that there is some alluvial land, but the valley 
does not appear to be of great extent. 
Camp 53, Round island, March 1.—The Cottonwood valley was found to be only five or six 
miles in length and completely hemmed in by wild-looking mountains. The belt of bottom 
land is narrow, and dotted with graceful clusters of stately cottonwood in full and brilliant 
leaf. The river flows sometimes through green meadows, bordered with purple and gold 
rushes, and then between high banks, where rich masses of foliage overhang the stream, and 
afford a cool and inviting shade. From the edges of this garden-like precinct sterile slopes 
extend to the bases of the surrounding mountain chains. <A few isolated black hills break the 
monotony of the ascent. There is no vegetation ; the barren surfaces reach to the very sum- 
mits of the lofty ranges and impart to the grandeur of the scene an air of painful desolation. 
We have now entered a region that has never, as far as any records show, been visited by 
whites, and are approaching a locality where it is supposed that the famous ‘‘ Big Cafion’’ of 
© This impression subsequent ‘inati tirely confirmed. 
_ For several days we have been expecting the return of the Indian expressman. These run- - 
