SAN FRANCISCO FOREST TO MOQUIS—TRAIL TO MOQUIS. 117 
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the removed stratum. The scene was one of utter desolation. Nota tree nor a shrub broke 
its monotony. The edges of the mesas were flaming red, and the sand threw back the sun’s 
rays in a yellow glare. Every object looked hot and dry and dreary. The animals began to 
give out. We knew that it was desperate to keep on, but felt unwilling to return, and forced 
the jaded brutes to wade through the powdery impalpable dust for fifteen miles. The country, 
if possible, grew worse. There was not a spear of grass, and from the porousness of the soil 
and rocks it was impossible that there should be a drop of water. A point was reached which 
commanded a view twenty or thirty miles ahead, but the fiery bluffs and yellow sand, paled 
somewhat by distance, extended to the end of the vista. Even beyond the ordinary limit of 
vision were other bluffs and sand fields, lifted into view by the mirage, and elongating the 
hideous picture. The only relief to the eye was a cluster of blue pinnacles far to the east 
that promised a different character of country. It was useless, however, to take the risk of 
proceeding directly thither. The experience of the day had demonstrated the hopelessness of 
trying to drive the mules for any length of time through an untrodden and yielding soil, and it 
was determined, as a last chance, to go back to Flax river and ascend the bank, at the hazard 
of having to make a long circuit, till some Indian trail should be encountered leading in the — 
desired direction, and affording a beaten way practicable t» be followed. 
The night spent upon the desert showed that this condemned region was not entirely devoid 
of life. As the sun declined and a pleasanter atmosphere succeeded to the oppressive heat, 
scorpions, spiders, rattlesnakes, and centipedes emerged from their retreats to enjoy the 
evening air. A collector in that department of natural history could have reaped a harvest of 
these reptiles in almost any part of our camp-ground. 
The next day we went back to the river, striking it ten miles above the place where we had : 
left it. The return was attended with the same difficulties as the march of the day before, 
and I think nothing but the knowledge on the part of the thirsty mules that they were ap- 
proaching water could have made them hold out till the distance was accomplished. The 
valley seemed like an Eden, in contrast with the region that had just been visited, though a 
sorry looking place if compared with the more favored parts of the continent. 
During yesterday we have travelled up the river twenty-five miles, The valley is much cut 
up by ravines and sloughs. There are indications -that, at some seasons, there are storms 
which send torrents of water from the plateau across the alluvial lands. The soil in many 
places is impregnated with alkalies and the surface covered with an efflorescence. 
The blinding glare of the-sun upon the white ground seriously affects the vision, and it has 
been found necessary to screen the eyes with muslin shades. 
The bottom is filled with black-tailed deer. A buck was killed to-day measuring six feet 
from the nose to the base of the tail. The venison was of delightful flavor, and, though not in 
season, quite tender. Ruins of ancient pueblos have been passed. These vestiges of a former 
race of inhabitants, which are found so widely scattered over the table-lands of New Mexico, 
may be taken as evidence either that the country where they exist can or that it cannot now 
sustain a population; depending upon the theory adopted to account for the disappearance of 
the previous residents. 
At noon to-day we came to the object of our search—a well-beaten Indian trail running 
towards the north. Camp was pitched at the place where it strikes the river, and it is the 
intention to make the second attempt to-morrow to penetrate the unexplored region. Near by 
are several salt springs, and scattered over the adjacent surface are crystals of excellent salt. 
This accounts for the position of the trail, for it is doubtless here that the Moquis obtain their 
supply of that article. 
Camp 91, Pottery Hill, May 9. —The Indian trail pursued a straight line almost due north, 
and had hoe sufficiently used to form an easy, well-beaten path, which could be travelled 
without difficulty or fatigue. Eighteen miles brought us to the line of bluffs by whieh the 
