122 SAN FRANCISCO FOREST TO MOQUIS—VISIT OF CHIEF TO CAMP. 
we beheld a magnificent panorama. The San Francisco mountain, the valley and caiion of Flax 
river, and the plateaus to the north and east were all visible, the most distant objects appearing 
distinct and well defined through the transparent atmosphere. Several trails radiated from the 
foot of the bluff in perfectly straight lines, and could be traced a long way over the level sur- 
face. One conducted to the cafion of Flax river and doubtless to the Yampais village; another, 
the chief told us, was the trail of the Apaches; another, that of the Coyoteros; a fourth came 
from Zui, and still further east was the Navajo trail leading to Fort Defiance. 
We learned that there were seven towns; that the name of that which we were visiting was 
Mooshahneh. A second smaller town was half a mile distant; two miles westward was a third, 
which had been seen from camp the evening before. Five or six miles to the northeast a bluff 
was pointed out as the location of three others; and we were informed that the last of the seven, 
Oraybe, was still further distant, on the trail towards the great river. 
From these heights, the ascent to which is so difficult and so easily defended, the Moquis 
can overlook the surrounding country, and descry, ata vast distance, the approach of strangers. 
The towns themselves would be almost impregnable to an Indianassault. Each pueblo is built 
around a rectangular court, in which we suppose are the springs that furnish the supply to the 
reservoirs. The exterior walls, which are of stone, have no openings, and would have to be 
scaled or battered down before access could be gained to the interior. 
The successive stories are set back, one behind the other. The lower rooms are reached 
through trap-doors from the first landing. The houses are three rooms deep, and open upon 
the interior court. The arrangement is as strong and compact as could well be devised, but 
as the court is common, and the landings are separated by no partitions, it involves a certain 
community of residence. The strength of the position unfortunately does not protect the 
animals upon the plains below, and our friends informed us, with rueful faces, that the 
Comanches and Navajoes had driven off a great deal of their stock during the previous year. , 
The Moquis do not look warlike, and but for their natural and artificial defences would doubtless 
long ago have been exterminated by their powerful and aggressive neighbors. 
Curious faces were peering at us from the openings and landings during these observations. 
Many of the women and girls made their appearance; all but one or two having previously 
kept out of sight. The hair of the young girls is gathered into large knots, or rather knobs, one 
at each corner of the forehead, which gives them an odd appearance, but their skins are rather 
fair and their faces pretty. They are quiet and retiring; were neat in their appearance, and 
prepossessing in expression and manner. The whole tribe are of a much lighter hue than any 
Indians met upon our route. 
Having made a long visit, we descended to camp, inviting the chief and two of his friends 
to go with us, which they did, taking us down by a more direct route than that by which we 
had ascended. The sheep were soon forthcoming, according to agreement, and several brought 
bags of corn and little packages of dried peaches to trade. Some beautiful and really valuable 
Navajo blankets were also offered, and readily exchanged for a woollen shirt, or some common 
article of apparel. . 
The three who accompanied us down I invited into my tent and regaled with bread and 
molasses, which they ate greedily. They had scarcely commenced when as many as the tent 
could hold entered without invitation and joined in the repast. 
Like the Zuiii Indians, the Moquis have albinos among them. A woman with a fair light 
complexion and hair has been in camp this evening. It seemed incredible that she could be of 
Indian parentage, but the cases are by no means rare in the pueblos of New Mexico. 
Satisfied with the conduct of the chief, I gave him a red sash, which excited great admira- 
then departed, prom sin; - to be in camp early in the morning, ready to accompany 
, heat intense. It is hard to realize that the region 
ight hours ago, and that we were nearly frozen by 
