124 MOQUIS TO FORT DEFIANCE—ORAYBE GARDENS. 
able to water the animals and fill the kegs as we go by. A large number of the citizens came 
to see us. I subsequently learned that one of them was the chief, but he did not accost any 
one nor seem desirous of making acquaintances. It was apparent that he was out of humor, 
and the chief that had guided us informed me that the other, who seems to be the senior of all, 
had objected to any of the tribe accompanying the expedition north, on the ground that 
there was no water, that-the country was bad, that we would have to travel several days before 
we would come to a river, and that if we did reach it the mules could not get to the bank. 
Arguments and promises were vain. The Oraybe continued to express disapproval, and his 
influence seemed to be all-powerful. His ill temper increased as the discussion proceeded, and 
at last he left in a sulk and went home. I then had a talk with the other. He was friendly 
in his manner, but said that he could not go while his superior objected, and intimated, if I 
understood him aright, that the Oraybe captain had some reason for not being well disposed 
towards Americans. He said that there was a water hole a long day’s journey off where we 
could get a small supply; that to this point he would guide us, and that there was a trail 
beyond which could be followed as well without guidance as with it. He persisted that there 
would be a march of three or four days without water before reaching the river. As nearly as 
I have been able to judge, they consider a day’s march thirty miles. If his statement is true, 
the question of crossing this desert in the present condition of the mules may be considered as 
settled. 
The Oraybe Indians are more quiet than their brethren of Mooshahneh. They collect ina 
circle to witness anything that may be going on, but are almost silent, and when they speak or 
laugh do so in a suppressed tone, like children under restraint. There is much uniformity of 
dress. All are wrapped in Navajo blankets, with broad white and dark stripes, and a crowd 
at a distance looks like the face of a stratified rock. 
The external and internal arrangements of the houses are like those of the other town, but 
there is generally less neatness and thrift in the appearance both of the place and its inhabitants. 
Camp 95, Oraybe gardens, May 13.—Neither of the chiefs appeared in camp this morning, 
nor many of their tribe. They are late risers, and we were off soon after sunrise. Not 
expecting to be furnished with.a guide, it had been determined what course to take, and we 
skirted the eastern base of the bluff in order to follow a deep depression that has been noticed 
extending towards the northwest. We had proceeded a mile, when an Indian came running after 
us. He said that he had been despatched by the Oraybe chief to conduct us to the next water, 
and we began to think the old fellow less churlish than he had appeared, and gladly availed 
ourselves of his civility and of the new-comer’s knowledge. 
Selecting a course amongst numerous intersecting trails, that would have puzzled a stranger 
considerably, he led the way to the east of the bluff on which Oraybe stands. Eight or nine 
miles brought the train to an angle formed by two faces of the precipice. At the foot was a 
reservoir, and a broad road winding up the steep ascent. On either side the bluffs were cut 
into terraces, and laid out into gardens similar to those seen at Mooshahneh, and, like them, 
irrigated from an upper reservoir. The whole reflected great credit upon Moquis ingenuity 
and skill in the department of engineering. The walls of the terraces and reservoirs were of 
partially dressed stone, well and strongly built, and the irrigating pipes conveniently arranged. 
The little gardens were neatly laid out. Two or three men and as many women were working 
in them as we passed. 
The steep hill completely broke down the animals, and we had to camp upon the brink of the 
mesa above. I rewarded the Indian handsomely, and tried to persuade him to continue with 
us to-morrow. He has consented, but looks as though he meant to break his word. Our 
Mojaves would have persisted obstinately in refusing, or, having once agreed to go, would have 
adhered to their bargain. : 
While on the road to-day the guide pointed out a place where the Navajoes had recently 
