128 MOQUIS TO FORT DEFIANCE—-NAVAJO TERRITORY. 
so impertinent. A third joined them after a while, also from the direction of Moquis, and the 
first two, after a rest, saddled their ponies and departed, informing me that the other would 
stay and accompany us. They perpetrated one act of civility, however, before leaving, pre- 
senting me with a cheese of dirty exterior, but almost white inside and very good. Two 
Moquis Indians came into camp at sunset and told us that they were going on with us. 
Camp 100, White Rock spring, May 19.—We had proceeded but a few miles this morning 
when a shouting was heard behind, and looking back we saw the Moquis chief and eight of his 
followers running to overtake us. They had left Tegua before daylight ; with the Navajo lead- 
ing off upon his pony, the company of Indians formed a respectable looking retinue, doubling 
the size of the party. I was glad to see that each had brought his own provisions tied up in 
the corner of a blanket and swung over the shoulder. From their description we inferred 
that it was about fourteen miles to the next water; but that distance was accomplished, and the 
Indians being interrogated, said that it was still a little way ahead ; mile after mile was passed, 
and still the water was a little way ahead, till we had at last made winks -four miles, when they 
signified that it was the place to camp. 
We were ina level, grassy ravine, a mile deep, with low rocky walls; an excellent spring 
was found at the lower end. The country crossed to-day has been a rolling mesa overgrown 
with cedars, which have contracted the view ; occasional lines of bluffs break the smoothness 
of the surface. We are now in the Navajo region ; a little way back of camp in a broad valley 
were herds of horses and flocks of sheep. A great many Indians have come into camp, both 
male and female, all mounted, the women riding astraddle like the men ; there being little to 
distinguish them apart excepting that the former wear a blanket and carry the luggage when 
there is anything to be transported. They are rather a fine looking race, with bold features, 
but look like rascals, and undoubtedly are such. Fortunately our camp and grazing ground are 
enclosed on three sides by the walls of the ravine ; the camp is pitched near the mouth; the 
mules are inside, and cannot be taken out without passing by us. 
The Moquis and the Navajoes have the semblance of being on good terms, and have been 
talking and laughing together in the most friendly manner. But the Tegua chief privately 
informed me sores the evening that these same men had stolen their stock, and that they 
bad set. 
¢ cbauosliee projecting rock of white sandstone that almost forms a cave. It is 
reme end of the ravine, and the ravine itself is a mile from the trail, and 
ny similar formations that we should have probably missed the place but 
Navajo left us on the opposite side of the valley as soon ag he 
: territory. The green plain is studded with isolated white rocks— 
vomits of the mesa—which stand in bright relief upon the dark surface, and form the most 
striking feature of the landscape. — 
Camp = Pueblo creek, May 20.—Several Moquis who have been visiting the Navajoes 
lled the train to-day. There are now twenty-three accompanying us, and as we proceed 
mount | Navajoes fall into the ranks till we find ourselves moving in great force. The Moquis 
assured e that the next water was but. a little distance from the last camp, but we travelled 
near ly twenty miles before reaching it. We found there a pretty creek running between steeP 
earth banks ten or twelve feet high. The water is good, though warm. The country passe 
over has: preserved generally the same features—a rolling mesa covered with a cedar forest— 
luffs, however, being seldomer encountered than on the previous days. The crest of a 
pata a ton miles from the creek overlooked an extensive and lovely valley, a brilliant sheet 
ure dotted with clumps of cedars, and extending far to the north and south. 
_Cematlee herds of horses and flocks of sheep were grazing upon'the plain. The Moquis 
said that we were entering one of the most Abickly populated sections of the Navajo territory. 
