1891.] W. Doherty — The Butterflies of Sumha and Samhawa, SfX. 155 



worn into a thousand fantastic shapes like Gothic gurgoyles. The 

 impressive uncanniness of this place I cannot describe ; my horse was 

 in an agony of terror. Finally I came to a citadel on a steep crag, and 

 climbing the wall in constant expectation of attack, I found a mass of 

 huge fortress-like houses of stone, bigger than any built nowadays. 

 After I had gone over most of them and found them full of grain and 

 household utensils, but without inhabitants, I finally stumbled on 

 three very old men, who were speechless with amazement at seeing me. 

 They were in charge of the place and had not had a visitor for months. 



The little district with its sheltering citadel was probably till 

 modern times the only kind of state in Sumba. The recent evolution 

 of governments like Lewa and Melolo has as yet had but little influence 

 on the people of the interior. 



On the coast, one can now ride from Waingapu to Melolo withou,t 

 receiving anything from the men he meets but polite salutations. In 

 the interior, even in the middle of the Lewa dominions, T never met a 

 native not belonging to the village where I was staying, but we both 

 prepared for battle, and spear and revolver were held in readiness till 

 we had exchanged betel. Twice I was within an ace of being speared, 

 because I came on men suddenly in the forest. When two parties meet, 

 they halt when yet a long way apart, dismount, and drive their spears 

 deep into the earth as a sign of peace, then exchange a " cooey " (the 

 well-known Australian cry, much used in Sumba), and yell out a 

 question or two. Then two men advance, one from each party, and 

 exchange betel, after which the others come forward warily, keeping a 

 good grip on spear and shield. In spite of the tyranny of the kings 

 over their subjects, and their occasional ferocity to conquered enemies, 

 centralized government of any kind is better than this constant distrust 

 of one's neighbours. The northern kings of Sumba have greatly 

 strengthened their power by making it hereditary. The umhu maremba, 

 or heir-apparent, is a power even in his father's lifetime. Whereas in 

 Ende, Roti, Savu, and in the less advanced states of Sumba, the king's 

 successor is elected by the nobles from the royal house. 



The most powerful of the Sumba kings are those of Lewa (who 

 holds Kamb^ra by right of conquest), and Melolo (who ruled half the 

 island a generation ago), whose son rules at Petawang. West of 

 Lewa come Taimanu, Kapundu, Palmedo, Kadungu (or Memboro), and 

 finally Laura, which is said to be of great interest, but which has 

 not been visited by any European. The Dutch claim allegiance from 

 the Savu and Timorese immigrants at Waingapu and Kabanirii as well 

 as over a few Arabs, Bugis, and Chinese who trade at Waingapu. Buc 

 these all pay tribute to the king of Lewa, and the only time they 



