154 J. Delacour—Notes of a Bird-lover in Tropical America


clearing of a few square miles has been conquered with much trouble,

and on the edge one sees gigantic trunks, half dead, having a naked

appearance, separated as they are from their neighbours and from the

lower vegetation which bad previously surrounded them ; their isola¬

tion has almost killed them.


A wharf of violet timber ; avenues planted with mango-trees along

which are pretty villas ; the huge buildings of the hospital ; and that

is the town of St. Laurent-du-Maroni. In the distance, 3 miles

off, on the opposite bank (which is the Dutch bank, for the Maroni

separates the two colonies), the houses of the little town of Albina,

painted in pale blue, appear completely overshadowed amongst the

great dark-green trees. People have a preconceived idea that

St. Laurent, the town of the convicts, is a “ God-forsaken and terrible

place ”. What a mistake ! its lovely avenues, with the well-kept

grass, trees garlanded with orchids and bromelias, its well-built houses

and shady gardens, make the official quarters a most agreeable spot,

especially when one compares it to the hideous streets and crumbling

houses of Cayenne. The commercial quarters, equally well kept,

are amusing owing to the extraordinary mixture of convicts and

liberated Europeans and Arabs, of coloured people, Chinese merchants,

Boni negroes 1 with their one garment of brilliant hue ; Bed Indians

who descend from the heart of the virgin forest to make certain

purchases.


As to the camps of the convicts, one does not even notice them.

One sees prisoners everywhere, clean-shaved, dressed in white linen,

wearing a large hat of palm leaves, employed in every kind of occupa¬

tion, under the surveillance of the warders.


St. Laurent and its district belong to the Penitentiary Administra¬

tion, which there reigns as absolute mistress, a great benefit to

naturalists visiting the country. All round St. Laurent convict

camps are established, some of which are regular towns, such as St. Jean-

du-Maroni. These camps are connected one with another by light

railways, which penetrate the virgin forest. One can travel on trucks


1 The Boni and the Bosch are negroes living in tribes in the most primitive

manners, who inhabit the Maroni district above St. Laurent. They are

descended from escaped slaves, and have the monopoly as carriers in their

canoes on the river.



