186 EL PASO AND 
first opening of spring the vineyards are irrigated, or 
rather inundated; for the water is suffered to flow 
over them, and there to remain until the ground is 
thoroughly saturated. This is generally all the water 
they get. In July, the grapes come to maturity, and 
last full three months. As may be supposed from the 
abundance of this fruit, it is exceedingly cheap, and 
forms a large portion of the food of the inhabitants 
during the season. 
In order to extract the juice of the grapes, they 
are thrown into large vats, and trodden by the naked 
feet of men; after which they are put into bags or 
sacks of raw ox-hide and pressed.. The wine of El 
Paso enjoys a higher reputation in certain parts of the 
United States than it deserves. I have drank little 
that was above mediocrity; and it served me as it 
does most others who are not used to it, causing @ 
severe headache. But I have no doubt that with pro- 
per attention a superior quality of wine may be pro- 
duced here; and such is the opinion of those familiar 
with grape countries, who have tasted the El Paso 
wine. Brandy, or aguardiente, is also made from the 
grape. It is ofa light color, and is knownin New Mex- 
ico as ‘‘ Pass Whiskey.” Both the wine and brandy 
are transported to various parts of New Mexico and 
‘Chihuahua; and some even finds its way to Durango. 
The Rio Grande valley near El Paso, and generally 
in other places, is thickly timbered with cotton-wood. 
The trees sometimes grow to a large size. Mezquit is 
found on the borders between the plateau and the val- 
ley; on the plateau itself it appears in a shrubby state- 
Cotton-wood and the roots of the mezquit constitute 
ithe fuel of the country. 
