192 EL PASO AND 
the mixed race. The latter are generally very dark, 
though some are seen of fairer complexion. 
The upper class dress as we do. Among the 
inferior classes, the men wear a short jacket with 
large white cotton drawers, over which are drawn pan- 
taloons, open at the outer side, from the hip down. 
Along this are rows of gilt buttons and other orna- 
ments. Around the waist a red silk sash is generally 
worn. The whole is covered with a serape or blanket 
in cold weather. All the women wear the reboso—a 
searf thrown over the head and around the shoulders: 
it is made of silk or cotton, and costs from one to 
thirty dollars. The most respectable ladies generally 
appear in the street in black, but at evening par 
ties the richest and most gaudy articles are worn. 
Smoking is indulged in by all classes, and by both 
sexes. It is not considered proper, however, for 
young gentlemen or ladies to smoke before their 
parents. I noticed the same respect shown by all 
at an entertainment when the Bishop of Durango 
was present. After dinner cigars were brought in. 
Every gentleman helped himself, and retired to 
another room to smoke, leaving his reverence and 
myself alone. 
El Paso, on the Mexican side of the river, which I 
have been describing, contains about five thousand 
inhabitants; but the number would be much increased 
by including the many ranchos and haciendas below 
the town, which properly appertain to it. On the 
American side there are but few houses; and these 
may be divided into three groups or settlements. The 
first is Coons’ Rancho. This was the first settlement, and 
