imported from Holland went through many more complicated preparatory 

 steps. First it was oven-dried then pounded into powder. The husks removed 

 in this first pounding were sifted out and sold at a low price. The second 

 pounding resulted in separating out one-third of the remaining roots and, 

 after sifting, this material was sold as an intermediate quality. The final 

 pounding left only the "interior, pure and bright part of the roots" and made 

 up the first quality "Kor Kraps" or crop madder. Packed in casks, madder's 

 potency would increase with aging for 1 to 2 years. During this aging period 

 and during shipping, it tended to pick up moisture that could, in excess, 

 deteriorate the madder. Besides overaging, buyers had to contend with the 

 possibility of adulteration with brick dust, sand, mahogany wood, almond 

 shells, and many other mineral and vegetable substances. Mineral sub- 

 stances were generally less harmful because they would simply reduce the 

 quantity of dye as they settled to the bottom of the vat ; however, vegetable 

 substances could sadden bright red hues. 



Madder dyeing of cotton, called Turkey red dyeing, originated in India, 

 from there it was transmitted to other parts of the East (including Turkey, 

 from which the process derived its name) and eventually was carried to 

 Europe by the French. Turkey or Adrianople red became one of the most 

 sought-after colors of the 19th century. In 1840 the Merrimac and Hamilton 

 Mills in Lowell, Massachusetts, alone produced more than a quarter- 

 million yards of cotton fabrics dyed or printed in madder colors "of a price 

 and quality that rivalled the foreign" (Bishop, 1866, vol. 2, p. 421). 



The whole process was, according to one dyer, the most complicated 

 application of mordant in the whole art of dyeing, requiring, in addition 

 to madder, an oil, galls, alum, dung and — in one recipe — the intestinal 

 liquor of a ruminating animal and the blood of oxen or sheep. 



John Ranch, whose dyebook gives complete directions for Turkey red 

 dyeing, believed that the dyer of such yarn had to have his whole dye house 

 geared to that purpose only. He felt it was necessary to have 4,500 or 

 5,000 pounds of yarn on hand, so that with the assistance of 8 or 10 helpers 

 the dyer could finish 100 pounds per day (1815, p. 34). 



Ranch stated that it took 16 actual working days with one drying day 

 allowed after each day's work. A total of 40 to 50 days were required to 

 complete the process. Basically cotton was prepared by soaking in soda, 

 after which the cloth went through several days' dippings in oil and sheep- 

 dung solutions. Then it was dipped in soda and nitric acid, later in nut gall 

 solution, and finally in alum solution. The first three-fourths of the process- 

 ing mordanted and prepared the yarn. The actual dyeing in madder 

 solution took only 3 hours. The remaining dips were in oil and soda solutions, 

 concluding with a final alum, nitric acid, and water bath, rinse, and 

 shade-drying. 



23 



