Khaki Wool: no mordant before dyeing 

 Colorfastness : good 



1 pound wool 



2 quarts ripe juniper berries 

 2 ounces pottish alum 



fi ounce ammonium chloride 

 1 ounce cream of tartar 

 1 ounce copper sulfate 

 1 ounce copper acetate 



Dissolve the alum, ammoniuin chloride, cream of tartar, and copper 

 sulfate in 4 to 4}2 gallons of water. Before immersing the wool in the dyebath, 

 thoroughly wet it and squeeze out excess moisture. Heat it to boiling; 

 boil for 1 hour. Allow the material to stand in this mordant liquor until 

 it is cool, then rinse the wool, roll it in a towel and set it aside. 



Break up the berries, tie them in a cheesecloth bag, and place the bag 

 in enough water to cover it. Allow the berries to soak overnight. The follow- 

 ing morning boil the berries for 1 hour. After removing the cheesecloth 

 bag from the dye extract, add cold water to make a dyebath of 4 to 4^2 

 gallons. Thoroughly wet the previously mordanted wool in water, squeeze 

 out excess moisture and immerse the material in the dyebath. Heat the 

 dyebath to boiling, continue to boil for 1 to 2 hours, then remove the wool. 

 Next dissolve copper acetate in the dye liquor, return the wool material to 

 it and boil it for 15 to 30 minutes longer, rinse and dry. 



Lichens 



For many years rural dyers of Sweden, Scotland, and Ireland have used 

 lichens for coloring woolens variovis shades of brown, yellow, red, and 

 purple. Though lichens were never used as frequently as other dye materials 

 in the United States, many produce interesting colors without mordants. 

 The two recipes which follow merely suggest the possibilities that might 

 be explored with lichen dyeing. A more complete study of this subject is 

 Eileen M. Bolton's book "Lichens for Vegetable Dyeing" which gives 

 details on identification of lichens and directions for using them. 



Lichen 1 (Pel tiger a sp.) 



Lichens of the genus Peltigera are flat and leaflike. The lobes are large, 

 sometimes overlapping, and are dark greenish brown when wet, but turn 

 ashen when dried (Bolton, 1957). They grow on soil and mosses in damp 

 woods and are abundant in all parts of North America, especially in the 

 moimtains of the South. 



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