III-112 



Note that p is a function of I and m. Using the change of variables 



a = (1 - Y^)^ cos e 



S = (i ■- Y^)^ sin e 



I = (1 - v^)^ cos (9 + 0) 



m = (i - v^)^ sin (e + 0) 

 we obtain 



1 2tt 



)kV3< 



n = 1 - ^^^4-^ 



spec 2 



v^A' 



] 







where 



ks^ 

 the Neumann -Pierson sea surface spectrum can be written as 



A^ (uu) = A^ (kgw) 



aw 



Therefore, 



k^g^w^ 



1 2tt 



fi - 1 



spec 



where, we recall. 



scY 



2q3 (2a) ^ 



II 



_9/fe 



(IIM49) 



dvdG (III- 150a) 



w^ = 2 - v^ - Y^ - 2r(i - Y ^) (1 - v^)]~ cos 6 (III- 150b) 



Using the substitution 



(III- 151) 



(III- 152) 



j7 I V w e 







dvde (III- 153) 



g = acceleration due to gravity = 980 cm sec 



c = a constant = 4.8 (10'^ ) cm^ sec"^ 



_i 

 s = wind speed in cm sec 



Arthur Sl.littlcJnf. 



S-7001-0307 



