CONTENTS- - Con t inued 



FIGURES 



Page 



1 Location map of study area 12 



2 Schematic showing relationship between the direction of wave 



approach, breaker angle, and longshore current velocity. ... 16 



3 Compariosn of alongshore wind components with barometric 



pressure, July-August 1971 21 



4 Relationship between onshore-offshore wind components and 



windspeed for the summer period 22 



5 Water and air temperature measurements, July- August 1971 23 



6 Relationship between breaker power, breaker height, and 



barometric pressure for the summer period 25 



7 Relationship between wave steepness and breaker height, 



July-August 1971 26 



8 Breaker angle and alongshore wind components, July-August 19 71. 27 



9 Ground water elevation and breaker height measurements, 



July-August 1971 28 



10 Longshore or lateral movement of littoral drift 29 



11 Mean velocities required to erode sand 30 



12 Longshore current velocity and breaker- angle measurements, 



July-August 1971 32 



13 Aerial view of study area on 28 June 1971 showing profiles 



PL-0, PL-5 and PL- 11 33 



14 Profiles PL-0 and PL-5, 2 July 1971 34 



15 Profiles PL-5 and PL- 11, 2 July 1971 34 



16 Ridge slip-face migration data for profiles PL-4, PL-9, and 



PL-10 between 17 and 24 June 1971 36 



17 Block diagram of study area, 28 July 1971 37 



18 Profiles PL-0 and PL-6, 1 August 1971 38 



19 Profiles PL-6 and PL-11, 2 August 1971 39 



