CONTENTS 



Page 



CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI) 9 



I INTRODUCTION 11 



II FIELD METHODS 13 



1. Wave Conditions 13 



2. Longshore Currents '. 15 



3. Ground Water Elevation 17 



4. Meteorological Parameters 17 



5. Beach Profile Techniques 19 



III SUMMER BEACH PROCESS VARIABLES 20 



1. Introduction 20 



2. Meteorological Variables 20 



3. Wave Measurements 24 



4. Ground Water Measurements 24 



5. Longshore Current Measurements 29 



IV SUMMER BEACH MORPHOLOGY 31 



1. Introduction 31 



2. Preweld Period 35 



3. Postweld Period 48 



V WINTER BEACH PROCESS MEASUREMENTS 59 



1. Meteorological Measurements 59 



2. Wave Measurements 62 



VI WINTER BEACH MORPHOLOGY 68 



VII BEACH PROFILE CLASSIFICATION AND CHARACTERISTICS 84 



1. Early Preweld or Poststorm Profile (duration dependent 



upon severity of storm) 84 



2. Late Preweld Accretional Profile (up to 6 weeks after 



storm) 84 



3. Early Postweld (2 to 3 days to several weeks after 



welding) 84 



4. Late Postweld 84 



VIII STORM PROCESS MEASUREMENTS AND PROFILE CHANGES, 19 to 26 



FEBRUARY 1972 % 87 



Poststorm Conditions 91 



IX CONCLUSIONS 99 



LITERATURE CITED 100 



TABLE 



Summary of windspeed measurements, 1971-71 18 



