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Variations in beach process variables, during both the summer and winter 

 periods, were directly related to the passage of high- and low-pressure systems 

 and to the proximity of the system to Plum Island. With an increase in breaker 

 power and breaker steepness, the high tide beach-face gradient increased. 

 Increases in breaker power also resulted in a rise in the level of the ground 

 water surface. Although most process variables were similar for the summer 

 and winter periods, strong offshore winds and extreme low temperatures that 

 accompany polar high-pressure systems are unique to the winter period. 



Differences in beach morphology within a small area appear to reflect the 

 state of recovery of the beach profiles after a storm. Adjacent profiles at 

 different stages of maturity are controlled by the proximity of the nearshore 

 bar. The closer the bar is to shore, the faster the sediment is returned to 

 the beach- zone. 



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