the distribution of setup over the whole beach. The overall beach was 

 30 feet long, of which 20 feet made up the test section. Most values of 

 THETAB are the average of twenty measurements with a protractor. Wave 

 height was measured with a para I lei -wire resistance gage. 



All blanks in the table for the data of Galvin and Eagleson indicate 

 that the quantity was not measured. 



e. Putnam, Munk, and Traylor Field Observations (COUNT 226-245) 



At Oceanside, California, velocity was measured using weighted 

 floats and fluorescein dye. Additional data was obtained showing the 

 unsteadiness of the current. THETAB was measured with a compass from a 

 pier or from photographs taken from a blimp. Slope was obtained by sound- 

 ing from a pier. Observations 238 and 242 were obtained during a 22-knot 

 following wind approximately parallel to the shore. 



f . Inman and Quinn Field Observations (COUNT 244-276) 



Velocity was measured at the water surface and at the bottom of 

 the surf zone by timing the travel of floating kelp and weighted, tethered 

 soccer balls. The velocities given by Inman and Quinn are already the 

 averages of measurements made at 15 stations spaced at about 300-foot in- 

 tervals at Torrey Pines and Pacific Beach (near La Jo I la), California. Their 

 statistics show that the standard deviations often exceed the mean velocity. 

 In table 6, the velocity listed is the average of the bottom and surface 

 velocities whenever both are given. HB was estimated by an observer on 

 the beach. More than half of the values of THETAB were measured with a 

 transit sighting bar. Zeros in the table mean that the variables, averaged 

 over the 15 stations, had approximately zero magnitude. 



q. Moore and Schol I Field Observations (COUNT 277-347) 



Daily measurements were made during the summer of I960 at 

 Ogoturuk Beach, Alaska. THETAB was measured to the nearest 5° by compass, 

 HB was estimated to the nearest tenth of a meter, and VMEAS in cm/sec with 

 dye. Moore and Schol I 's data, given originally in the metric system, are 

 presented here in English units to conform with the other studies. SLOPE 

 was not measured during the study and the value listed under SLOPE is a 

 nominal one taken from a profile in their paper. The gravel beaches in 

 this area produce steeper slopes than the sand beaches in the other field 

 studies. Zeros listed in the table are measured values. 



During observations numbered 285, 287, 295, 300, 302, and 322, the 

 direction of the longshore current flow was opposite the direction from 

 which the waves approached (indicated by minus signs on the velocity in 

 the table). 



h. Galvin and Savage Field Observations (COUNT 548-552) 



At Nags Head, North Carolina, velocity was measured by timing 

 the travel of balloons filled with freshwater. Most values of THETAB were 



